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Post by strangewayz on Mar 23, 2014 20:42:38 GMT
If it was rideable with the fork extenders fit them & get yourself an mot, at least that way you can then roadtest properly any further changes.
What suspension setup have you done, if any, regards sag, just the weight of the bike & then with you on it?
So what you don't like is that you feel the bike steers too quickly ? (without the extenders).
But you don't have any instability / weave / wobble / headshake ?
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katanamak
Oviraptor
Cambridge
Posts: 14
Reg: Mar 16, 2014 14:08:34 GMT
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Post by katanamak on Mar 24, 2014 12:13:08 GMT
Have stripped re-assembled at the weekend so yet to test drive again. As you say number one option after this is to fit the extenders/mot again first. There is no instbility in straight line it just feels like its going to dive even when leant slightly. It actually sounds like (although I would never ride on so dont know) the description given by chopper riders who have extended their forks. Got my fingers crossed that I had missed something the first time round and will all be sorted on my next test. Never have used the Sag method you referred to even on Fireblades etc but this does sound like a good idea once I get to a reasonable start point. The forks and shocks are currently on medium settings. Thanks for the input. I will let you know how it goes.
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Post by strangewayz on Mar 24, 2014 14:38:55 GMT
What's the profile of the tyres like, are they past their best?
Does it favour one side over the other re feeling like it's diving into a bed?
Have you run a long straight edge against the sides of the rear tyre to see if it is aligned with the front?
Assuming that as you have checked them you have no play in the wheel bearings / swingarm bearings.
Likewise that the steering head bearings are adjusted correctly & the bars turn smoothly without cables etc binding.
Yes set the sag for the weight of the bike alone & then with you on it, not only will that give you a base to work from it should also tell you if the springs on the rear shocks are suited for your application. There are plenty of online guides for doing that.
Seems to me that an easy test is riding with the extenders fitted & then in small increments lower the front of the bike to find the point at which you don't like the feel. I appreciate that you mentioned this in one of your earlier posts but from a testing point of view you actually have the kit to do that.
I think first thing I would do is with the extenders fitted, at max height, with correct sag front & rear is adjust the front tyre pressure to see if you can loose the tipping in feeling that you had. Be cool if you could get a nice neutral feeling at full height & then start lowering it to quicken the steering to the point where you feel it is too quick / nervous then go back up slightly.
Lastly, if you have a steering damper fitted I would take it off for your tests.
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katanamak
Oviraptor
Cambridge
Posts: 14
Reg: Mar 16, 2014 14:08:34 GMT
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Post by katanamak on Mar 24, 2014 17:47:32 GMT
Thanks again for the detailed response. Remember, i originally converted the bike approx 10 years ago and the shocks are the "original"/ proper kat 1100 koni ones. The tyres are new pilot roads, all bearings are new and wheels aligned. I personally did all welding/reinforcing of the frame and can confirm the frame alignment is spot on. I actually bought a tool to enable torque up of the head-race (instead of relying on spring balance method) which I have done over the weekend. Can't try out tonight but if this doesn't help I will fit the extensions again. I was considering using these anyway and fitting the clipons above the yoke as I am getting older and may be easier on my wrists. I don't know how this would look and don't want to do this if it looks naff. Thanks again
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Post by gsx on May 8, 2014 6:31:05 GMT
Hi did you get it sorted? Think you may be going the wrong way with the front forks, mine has gsxr 1100 front forks which are probably a bit shorter than your bandit ones and 365 Mm shocks to jack the back up, it used to run wide with shorter standard length shocks. Just seems to be a quirk of running big fat tires on something designed to run skinny ones. As a bit of a reference point just look at your bottom frame rail, it should be angled down towards the front, don't know why this works but it does
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katanamak
Oviraptor
Cambridge
Posts: 14
Reg: Mar 16, 2014 14:08:34 GMT
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Post by katanamak on Jul 28, 2014 9:06:25 GMT
GSX, Thanks for your last reply and sorry about the delay in mine as I have been out of the country for a few months. I have only just started playing about with dropping the front and but have found no measured difference as yet.I am tempted to buy some longer shocks as my Konis (good) are the standard 335 length. A few people have commented that the back of my bike seems low (even though measures standard) and I am convincing myself that this is the case.Before I do I will check regarding the angle of the frame as this sounds like a good point. The other thought is the effect of the larger diameter tyre as it does feel as though the front drops in and the back is slow to follow. I wonder if using a narrower tyre than the 180 may result in this dropping in faster to match the front. I am still at a bit of a loss as you can see but if I do get sorted I will repost. I have riden the bike at 100+ and am comfortable in a straight line but it does feel like it is likely to get into a slapper especially as I slow down. I have had to pull over on a couple of ocasions on slowing as it has felt as though I have got a slight puncture - only to find no problem at all. Checked again all bearings, spacers, wheel alignment. whell tyre runout and all good. Going into roundabouts is still to say the least interesting and makes the bike no fun to ride at all. Thanks again for all the responses.
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katanamak
Oviraptor
Cambridge
Posts: 14
Reg: Mar 16, 2014 14:08:34 GMT
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Post by katanamak on Aug 17, 2014 15:08:15 GMT
After dropping the yokes in 5mm increments I have finally found a point where bike handles ok. Dropped a total of 26mm in the end and is no longer trying to nose dive on cornering. Now to sort the oil mist ,that covers my left foo,t that has developed.
It is leaking from the lower generator cover from an area adjacent to one of the casing bolts. This has an oil way coming from the engine that just seems to run into a blank hole on the cover. This area is particularly narrow and as I can see the oil cannot go anywhere once in the cover I may as well blank of to avoid future leakage. This is of course pending someone telling me this dead ended oil ways has some function. ta
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Post by gsx on Aug 17, 2014 18:20:33 GMT
Had an issue years ago with a gs 550 and the bloke who did me engine (as a favour) forced the alternator cover on but in doing so pushed one of the dowels back and blocked the oil flow to the head . . . Just double check and check again
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