suzuki11e
Oviraptor
Posts: 13
Bikes: gsx1100ef gsx1100et tl1000
Reg: Oct 3, 2013 12:30:33 GMT
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Post by suzuki11e on Jan 6, 2015 12:27:26 GMT
What if any thing do you use when refitting the two halves of the crank cases together, there doesnt seem to be a gasket used. Thanks all
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Post by Dezza on Jan 6, 2015 12:46:34 GMT
Three-bond is good. Don't use too much as the excess may break off and block something important like an oil way. Bike cases don't have a gasket as it would be almost impossible to get a correct bearing clearances on tightening. Careful preparation of the mating surfaces is needed. Clean off all the old cack with thinners. A manual will be needed for the correct tightening sequence of the case screws. What engine is it? I have never split a GSX motor (several others though) but others here have and will be able to give specific tips if that is what you are working on.
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Post by quazi on Jan 6, 2015 18:17:58 GMT
Seem to remember I used some wellseal when I did mine some 5 years ago.
Swear by the stuff, but only on specific matting surfaces.
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suzuki11e
Oviraptor
Posts: 13
Bikes: gsx1100ef gsx1100et tl1000
Reg: Oct 3, 2013 12:30:33 GMT
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Post by suzuki11e on Jan 6, 2015 18:56:12 GMT
Thanks for that, The motor is a gsx1100 ef 1135cc
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Post by katana on Jan 6, 2015 19:33:23 GMT
A real oldskool seal method uses no sealant whatsoever - just grease and some silk thread! Just smear some grease around the faces to be sealed then lay the thread in the grease 'glue' all around the castings with an inch overlap where they meet. Any grease that squeezes out is of no consequence, just don't move the case around once dropped onto the thread as it may get displaced on thin webs and then leak!
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Post by captain chaos on Jan 6, 2015 19:41:09 GMT
even more oldskool is just assemble the thing dry and live with all the oil leaks.
And many old people will start talking to you about "when I was a lad my Triumph Bonneville bla bla bla...."
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megawatt
Velociraptor
Posts: 36
Reg: Mar 3, 2014 8:46:39 GMT
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Post by megawatt on Jan 6, 2015 19:49:42 GMT
Used to use Kawasaki bond, can't find it now, so bought some Yamabond(same as 3 bond).
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Post by Dezza on Jan 7, 2015 16:18:43 GMT
Blue hylomar worked well too but this three-bond stuff now seems all the rage. It's a bit like old fashioned 'instant gasket'
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Post by arnout on Jan 7, 2015 19:26:39 GMT
Apart from deciding on what type of silicone goop to use, it is useful to check the flatness of the mating surfaces as this has an influence on the quality of the seal.. Use a straight edge to check for high points.. Usually the area around the cyl. studs will have raised itself over time slightly, which would result in a wider gap between the cases elsewhere..
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Post by screwriverracing on Jan 23, 2015 22:12:12 GMT
I've always used a thin smear of yambond, never had any problems. Cheers SRR
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Post by kokolis on Jan 23, 2015 22:48:16 GMT
Grease, thread,oldskool stuf and pray not to leak...........
You can also use a very thin layer of gasket silicon and be sure it wont.
If you dont damage the surfaces of the cases them have no reason to leak, higher temperature changes near the cylinder block get compensate through the cases structure.
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Post by atshed on Jan 23, 2015 23:06:54 GMT
lightly brushed on blue hylomar or locktite premium grey silicone , usually use a small artist brush to reduce any risk of excess blobs . takes a little extra time but never had any leaks or blockages to date. as arnout points out - checking surfaces is a must.
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Post by slim on Jan 24, 2015 11:24:28 GMT
I have removed too many knackerd heads to even think about getting hylomar or instant gasket anywhere near an engine 3 bond or yamabond is all I use as it does not set & dissipates in the oil so wont block any oilways etc Katana is showing his age by the way ive not heard of that method for 30 odd years
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