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Post by atshed on Jan 25, 2015 13:40:31 GMT
ok so before I go to the workshop and start cutting- anyone ever made up some lower mount plates for a 7/11et ?
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Post by pedda on Jan 25, 2015 17:17:32 GMT
As I recon every GSX 7/11 conversation will neet the same plates - you can bet there's been a few of us who did that...
If memory serves me right there are some sketches posted on here already.
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Post by atshed on Jan 25, 2015 19:02:59 GMT
Could measure and cut but was hoping someone had a set at the back of their shed somewhere. thanks though.
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Post by slim on Jan 25, 2015 19:04:07 GMT
You have 3 choices here mate just get on & make them or wait for someone to post a sketch which may or may not be right (seen 2 different ones on the old site) or move the frame lugs & use stock plates  |
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Post by atshed on Jan 25, 2015 22:43:04 GMT
always worth putting it out there in case someone had some.
got some nice stainless kicking around ,so workshop it is .
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Post by arnout on Jan 27, 2015 0:23:25 GMT
You have 3 choices here mate just get on & make them or wait for someone to post a sketch which may or may not be right (seen 2 different ones on the old site) or move the frame lugs & use stock plates My old and my current Katana's are both 7/11's, but the lower engine mount plates I had saved from the first bike didn't fit exactly right on the newer Kat.. The thing with these 7/11's is that the 1100 engine casing is sitting right up against one of the mount lugs on the 750 frame when you place the engine in there.. In my opinion this hard contact prevents a really good lining up of the rest of the engine mounts as it shifts everything (1-3mm's?) from position.. So depending on whether you modify this bit (grind a "flat" on the lug) or leave it as it is, the distance between the engine bolt and the threaded frame lugs will vary accordingly.. So.... Better take your own measurements as your situation will be slightly different too.. (unless you like really wide and sloppy bolt holes..!) Better still.. Just make a template straight away, as it is really easy.. Cut a piece of cardboard roughly into shape and hold it against the holes in question.. Take 3 ballpoints and poke them through the cardboard into the the holes.. work the shape so actual bolts can take the place of the ballpoint pens.. Check template on other side of the engine, and start tracing the holes on some aluminium or steel leftovers.. Oh btw.. On my frame I needed some 1mm washers to even out the offset between the face of the engine and frame holes..   |
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Post by gammaboy on Jan 27, 2015 21:31:37 GMT
The thing with these 7/11's is that the 1100 engine casing is sitting right up against one of the mount lugs on the 750 frame when you place the engine in there.. In my opinion this hard contact prevents a really good lining up of the rest of the engine mounts as it shifts everything (1-3mm's?) from position.. So depending on whether you modify this bit (grind a "flat" on the lug) or leave it as it is, the distance between the engine bolt and the threaded frame lugs will vary accordingly. I keep forgetting about this when I slot the motor in, makes it a right bastard to get the lower rear mount lined up unless you support the motor on a block of wood and a bottle jack... |
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