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Post by katana on Feb 26, 2015 17:56:27 GMT
First point - An auto drag transmission is nothing like a car auto that shifts for you.
They are manually or air shifted without killing the ignition or backing out of the throttle.
For best consistency they are ideal for use with a slider clutch - dial in the stall speed, hit the launch button, roll into WOT, let go of button and hang on ! ! ! Maybe not a good idea with a no bar bike unless the pack is really soft and mega rpm launch! The normal instruction to the rider was - turn that....till it gets noisy, let go of that, then press that 4 times to make the lite go out LOL
The most important thing is - you can't back out of the throttle in any gear other than top! If you do you will bend shift shafts and forks. We used Shnitz / Robinson Industries Hi-Ten shafts in Kev's FB and put a good bend on more than a few!
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Post by pasis on Feb 26, 2015 18:11:30 GMT
Thanks for the reply. Is there some sort of instruction on how to use a transmission, where I can read my questions. Yes, I want to use the slider clutch. How do you think it will be enough for me just 4 gears?  |
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paul7060
Velociraptor
Posts: 31 
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Post by paul7060 on Feb 26, 2015 18:14:03 GMT
Robinson makes a Great Box.
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Post by katana on Feb 28, 2015 10:01:32 GMT
I know of people that like 3 or 4 speed tranny's but only one who's used one in a no bar bike but not an auto! They are no doubt stronger and do need turbo torque to turn them successfully but I don't believe they will leave as quickly and also make clutch set up harder to balance the power / traction / wheelie potential. I think they are a bit 'old skool' as most of the former users have switched to 5 or 6 speed autos to make the short time tuning easier!
Due to the way the dogs are re-cut, if you take the load off them the gear will try to disengage and thats why they bend shafts or forks - doesn't always happen and isn't predictable. The downside is for most motors, its engine out to strip the shafts / forks out - the GSX can be done insitu via sump and clutch cover hence their popularity if you've only an hour between rounds!
There is no delicacy in their operation - you need good ram pressure be brutal and literally force the slide from one gear to the next for the whole run - this is the reason I wouldn't use on a no bar bike which is more likely to need a back off to control the chassis!
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Post by pasis on Feb 28, 2015 14:54:14 GMT
I know of people that like 3 or 4 speed tranny's but only one who's used one in a no bar bike but not an auto! They are no doubt stronger and do need turbo torque to turn them successfully but I don't believe they will leave as quickly and also make clutch set up harder to balance the power / traction / wheelie potential. I think they are a bit 'old skool' as most of the former users have switched to 5 or 6 speed autos to make the short time tuning easier! Due to the way the dogs are re-cut, if you take the load off them the gear will try to disengage and thats why they bend shafts or forks - doesn't always happen and isn't predictable. The downside is for most motors, its engine out to strip the shafts / forks out - the GSX can be done insitu via sump and clutch cover hence their popularity if you've only an hour between rounds! There is no delicacy in their operation - you need good ram pressure be brutal and literally force the slide from one gear to the next for the whole run - this is the reason I wouldn't use on a no bar bike which is more likely to need a back off to control the chassis! Thank you for your feedback! It is very helpful for me. Which version of the transmission, would you recommend for my case? |
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Post by katana on Mar 1, 2015 11:26:43 GMT
I'd stick with easy first off - run a fully re-worked pro prepared 5 speed manual from Robinsons. Once you know how the bike operates / handles you can swop to auto 5 speed - the manual will still have value if you trade it on.......unless you trash it. Both will work with a slider so that can stay!
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Post by screwriverracing on Mar 1, 2015 18:17:43 GMT
Just to but in, but can someone explain how the slider clutch works.
I have a lock up and understand that.
Just curious about slider clutches and there set up.
Cheers SRR
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Post by pasis on Mar 1, 2015 18:24:21 GMT
Thanks mate! But Robinson no longer produces products for 1100
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Post by pasis on Mar 2, 2015 14:59:52 GMT
Yesterday finally found the time to disassemble the engine of my 1100WC. After the next race I broke the valve ... Now I think to do a turbo.    |
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Post by duckndive on Mar 2, 2015 15:33:12 GMT
Just to but in, but can someone explain how the slider clutch works. I have a lock up and understand that. Just curious about slider clutches and there set up. Cheers SRR Simple answer is its like a rev up and go ped...open the throttle and it starts to engage Less Simple answer is based on various adjustments you can control at what RPM the clutch locks... You dont have a clutch lever to pull in.. 1) you set the stall speed.."RPM that the clutch starts to bite" .. 2) the weight "or lack off weight" on the arms then controls the rate that it slips until fully locked Normal way is to set 2 step at the clutch stall speed press the button to allow 2-step to work , stage bike putting first stage light on ...on ya toes inch bike into full stage ..2nd stage light on .. slowly open the throttle to WOT "bike should not move" . see last amber and let go off button....push the button 4 times to put the shift lite out then roll the throttle off after crossing the line..once rpm drops below stall speed clutch disengages coast to a stop you cannot pussy foot around on the bike "so you will need a pit bike after the run" Ian will give an in-depth account no doubt..  i run a PRW slider on my bike that has a ride back so i dont need a pit bike and can ride it around at low RPM.......  |
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Post by katana on Mar 2, 2015 19:01:12 GMT
Just to but in, but can someone explain how the slider clutch works. I have a lock up and understand that. Just curious about slider clutches and there set up. Cheers SRR Not an easy thing to explain until you have one in front of you! They are very similar to a normal / std lock up except whereas the std L/U has its arms and plate mounted via the hub which is gearbox input speed - hence the faster the bike goes the harder the lock up a sliders arms and weights are mounted to the basket so are engine speed related. The pressure plate lives inside the outer 'hat' and is held off the friction plates with springs - these are tuned via height and poundage to dial in the 'stall' speed / where the clutch starts to bite and the arms are used to over come that hold off pressure, obviously more weight will try to come in earlier and apply more pressure down track - its a balancing act. With the bike in gear and below the stall speed nothing happens - no drive. As you approach stall speed the plates will start to bite - we used to set the two step low range 50 -100 rpm below that point. As you push into pre stage you hold the two step button and wind on full throttle, with it stuttering away you roll into stage - see amber, off the button and you are away because you are instantly on max rpm, the arms slam into the frictions and lots of drive and noise. Hope that helps? PS - Clive has a pussy ride back lever cos he has no friends that will ride the scooter! LOL LOL LOL |
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Post by Kristjan on Mar 2, 2015 19:57:34 GMT
Looking at that 1100wc, something was terribly wrong in that one. incorrect timing or piston/valve clearance?
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Post by pasis on Mar 2, 2015 21:52:51 GMT
It looks like a problem with the springs ... I decided to buy everything new. Most will not buy used springs and so on. Here are the first fitting ...   |
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Post by pasis on Mar 2, 2015 21:59:21 GMT
Just to but in, but can someone explain how the slider clutch works. I have a lock up and understand that. Just curious about slider clutches and there set up. Cheers SRR I also long could not understand how can operate the slider clutch. While there was one in my hands. If you want I can make a video how it works, I have one for BMW. |
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