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Post by danm54 on Apr 29, 2013 21:47:47 GMT
Right, I'm getting close to starting the wiring on my turbo project and I'm after some/a lot of info. As a start I'll list the main things I've got going in, MS3 ECU SLC PP2 Data logger and wideband lambda sensor K-series clocks Air shifter The general switch gear etc looks to be easy enough and the Microsquirt also looks fairly simple when broken down into sections, the things I'm caught up on are as follows, Kill switch, should this kill the power to just the ECU and data logger? Air shifter, this needs to interrupt the signal to the coils whilst shifting, I'm running a Twin-output ignition driver module and have 2 feeds into it from the ECU so that'll be tricky to interrupt both of those. It has a ground wire though so would interrupting that kill the coils? Also is it safe to momentarily kill the coils on a turbo? K-series clocks, I have a wiring diagram but I seem to have more wires than the diagram! There are also wires that go to the ECU which I obviously don't have, what do these do and where am I supposed to put them? Also is it possible to test the circuits/lights as I connect them or is there an order that they need to be connected? Is there a switched live to power the clocks that needs going in first? There are probably more questions but I just have these to start with. Cheers Dan  |
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Post by duckndive on May 10, 2013 17:49:01 GMT
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Post by danm54 on May 11, 2013 22:32:08 GMT
Cheers, have wired most of it up now, just waiting on a laptop with a serial port to be delivered so I can get it connected to the ecu then add the sensors.
some good info there though.
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Post by duckndive on May 12, 2013 11:52:54 GMT
you can get a USB / Serial adaptor of flee bay cheap...
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Post by danm54 on May 12, 2013 18:47:44 GMT
Yea I know you can get them, according to microsquirt its much easier and more reliable with a serial port though.
Plus it was only £25 delivered so worth the risk to get a dedicated laptop just for the bike.
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Post by duckndive on May 17, 2013 11:49:08 GMT
yeah i used mine with a non USB power commander...was fussy to set up "drivers" but ok once done..... but like you said £25 for an old laptop is just as easy..  |
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Post by nomex on May 17, 2013 16:09:06 GMT
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Post by mattturbocar on May 25, 2013 20:57:04 GMT
What bike is this on?
If its 1100 then you will need to fashion a trigger wheel (unless MS3 supports the 4 tooth with a long one).
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Post by danm54 on May 28, 2013 21:35:59 GMT
I managed to get the laptop up and running, needed a new screen and a cheeky RAM upgrade but it stands me at £47 and works a treat, no connection probs at all.
Its on an 1100W.
Got a missing tooth trigger wheel. I'll turn a standard one down to use the centre of that, bore the missing tooth one out to a tight fit, set it up and put a couple of tack welds to hold it.
Problem I've came across is the TPS wiring, followed a 'how to' to identify the 3 different wires but I seem to get the same reading all the way from fully closed to fully open. Can only think I have a faulty TPS.
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Post by mattturbocar on May 29, 2013 8:17:39 GMT
Got a missing tooth trigger wheel. I'll turn a standard one down to use the centre of that, bore the missing tooth one out to a tight fit, set it up and put a couple of tack welds to hold it. When you turn down the stock trigger wheel, leave a shoulder, otherwise it can be difficult to true the 32-1 wheel when you put it on. I guess you know this already. Having made one of these myself and receiving this advice in the past, it was invaluable. Easiest thing to test TPS is Ohm meter. It is just a potentiometer with the throttle angle controlling the wiper. |
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Post by danm54 on May 29, 2013 14:03:12 GMT
I'd not thought how best to do it yet but I'll leave a shoulder for it now, cheers!
The TPS seems to give the same readings for open and closed on Tuner Studio, I've tested the wires and found the signal wire and tried the + and - both ways around but I always get the same readings for open and closed.
Using an Ohm meter the reading is not a smooth increase from closed to open, it seems to rise towards mid throttle then fall again.
I'll give it another go this afternoon and see if it becomes any clearer.
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Post by mattturbocar on May 29, 2013 16:22:53 GMT
You can get that behaviour if the two ends of the pot have been shorted out. But basically that means it is broken.
What is it from? gsxr1000k1 or gsxr600.
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Post by danm54 on May 29, 2013 17:19:04 GMT
Sorted it, needed to select the right ecu in tuner studio. Works now!
Its off a ducati, using a single tb.
Anyone know how to id the wires on a map sensor? Got red black and white and no diagram or anything to say which is which.
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Post by danm54 on May 29, 2013 21:00:30 GMT
Sorted the map sensor, easy enough.
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Post by mattturbocar on May 30, 2013 8:17:53 GMT
Sorted it, needed to select the right ecu in tuner studio. Works now! Its off a D*cat*, using a single tb. Anyone know how to id the wires on a map sensor? Got red black and white and no diagram or anything to say which is which. TPS from a van made by Fiat, interesting choice ;-) Single throttle body is probably a good design decision. I have ITB and it makes tuning more complicated because you get increases in air with both TPS and MAP, which means you need a couple of tables that combine, which makes autotune difficult. Do you actually need TPS at all with your setup. Always useful to have anyway. Matt |
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