rustic
Oviraptor
Posts: 4
Reg: May 28, 2013 18:28:46 GMT
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Post by rustic on May 28, 2013 19:14:32 GMT
hi all nice to see the site up and running .......while its been away ive started a project ive wanted to do for years now ive bought just about everything i need pro boost turbo td05 with everything i need to fit it ...im using a 1052 motor which i have no history for so its going to be a ground up resto ...found a set of 34 mmm carbs slabbie type with the metal tops now i need a few pointers from the guys who know about the right way to do this ....i hear different things on what you should and shouldnt do ,i dont want high boost pressures i want to be able to ride the thing . need to know best way to go??
would like to keep internals standard , 2mm spacer on block to lower compression to below 10/1 run dyna ignition with 4 deg retard and no intercooler if poss.....looking for around 200 bhp if anyone wishes to advise the best mods for this motor it will help me start the project in the right direction thanks ...R
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Post by nitro on May 29, 2013 10:19:56 GMT
Actually you said anything. If you have special questions - tell us
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rustic
Oviraptor
Posts: 4
Reg: May 28, 2013 18:28:46 GMT
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Post by rustic on May 29, 2013 19:58:11 GMT
sorry need to know if motor ok stock for what i intend to do ie low boost , 2mm block spacer,4deg retard and 200 bhp has anyone done one of these motors before is there anything i should be careful of???
and im going to need help or info on setting it up...anything very much appreciated.. cheers R
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Post by nitro on May 30, 2013 12:26:24 GMT
If the motor is in good condition (bearing shells, gearbox, etc...) I would think it will be fine You have to make the clutch stronger (spring + spacer, harder springs or lock up). For me, I would swap also the cilinder studs to stronger ones (f.e. APE).
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Post by nomex on May 31, 2013 8:40:39 GMT
Get a Proboost kit (http://www.proboost.fi/EN/products.html) or...
Keep it original, but put spacer plate. No IC, maybe later water injection if more than 0,7bar. Get a wideband AFR-meter (PLX, Innovate). Keep close look on AFR, don't run it too lean. OEM ignition should be enough at this level. Make a good pitot pipe for pressurepipe, maybe with possibility to adjust it. Use good glue on carbs (araldite) and put steel t-pipes to carbs. Doublecheck that carbs have good mint parts and they are assembled correctly. Get a good fuelpressureregulator, Malpassi is not a one. Turbo must be over the oillevel. Modify the frame, move the oilcooler, what ever is necessary (I did..). Don't find yourself asking what electric oilpump would work as they dont.
Do not use happyacidcoloured chinaparts. Buy less but with good quality. Don't try to change everything at the same time. Money and time will end in any case. Make a good turbomotor and then make possible changes to outlook IF everything seems to work.
Start with stock jets, later on you might have to change smaller ones. Fuelpressure 0,3bar. Try to use pneumatic quickfittings on pressurelines if possible. You don't need lockup for 0,7bar.
Be honest to yourself what you're really building - a lowboost lowcost streetbike or something else.
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rustic
Oviraptor
Posts: 4
Reg: May 28, 2013 18:28:46 GMT
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Post by rustic on Jun 3, 2013 17:31:37 GMT
Thanks for the replies you have eased my troubled mind some what...already have the proboost kit (which is good quality stuff) I was just worried that I was going to have do big mods to the engine just to run the turbo.. I have bought other blocks and pistons ( 1127) and intend to do a swop to hayabusa pistons etc..but want get used to all this turbo stuff before I get too wild (and too old) to understand it all now I can get on with checking the motor thanks again I will keep you posted as to the progress..
cheers R
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jrhartley
Oviraptor
If it don't blow it sucks!
Posts: 18
Bikes: GSXR11, turbo, GSXR11 turbo, Ducati Turbo, GSXR 1000 Turbo
Reg: Dec 13, 2013 11:56:44 GMT
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Post by jrhartley on Dec 13, 2013 12:15:04 GMT
You should read this www.rbracing-rsr.com/gsxrturbo.htmI've two turbo gsxr11's, one has forged pistons etc etc, the other is stock apart from a barrel spacer, they both run 18psi+ boost & with the right fueling both have lived for years..... You don't need all the 'better' parts,save your money, a lot of the after market stuff is junk worse than the Suzuki parts......
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Post by katana on Dec 14, 2013 10:55:11 GMT
Sorry! - Bullshit flag raised on stock cast pistons and 18+psi boost! The rings on Cast pistons generally crap out first with boost, then the ring lands, then the crowns! Even seen stock Busa forged pistons let go sub 1 bar. Either that or the spacer is giving CR's in the 7's!
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jrhartley
Oviraptor
If it don't blow it sucks!
Posts: 18
Bikes: GSXR11, turbo, GSXR11 turbo, Ducati Turbo, GSXR 1000 Turbo
Reg: Dec 13, 2013 11:56:44 GMT
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Post by jrhartley on Dec 14, 2013 11:18:51 GMT
Not bullshit!, read the link about RB Racing,& what they did many years ago with GSXR's, its all in engine prep' & the tune- forged pistons won't last with a bad tune..... The bullshit comes from people selling stuff you don't need!
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