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Post by danm54 on Jun 26, 2013 20:19:43 GMT
Found a couple of errors I made when setting up the fuel injection, got the injector size wrong and the timing slightly out. With those sorted it sounds much nicer.
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Post by maggotbreath on Jun 27, 2013 1:04:59 GMT
That's is so dam cool!!!! Congratulations and well done!
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Post by nitro on Jun 27, 2013 17:07:10 GMT
Oh yes, sounds really agressive! Congrants man!!!
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Post by danm54 on Jun 30, 2013 20:13:11 GMT
Cheers all, I think it sounds good.
Its fast approaching dyno time, got pretty much everything for the front brakes on the way, rear brake I just need a hose for. Awaiting a chain but hopefully that should be on its way soon, may have slight problems lining the sprockets up but the worst id have to do it mill the rear sprocket carrier down a few mm. The 5/8th offset front sprocket is here though and should fit ok.
Need to sort some sort of air box and filter out too, what's the minimum filter size I should be looking for? Thinking of a circular filter shaped into an oval with a back and front plate, or maybe a cone type if I could tuck it out the way enough.
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Post by katana on Jul 1, 2013 17:34:39 GMT
Maybe small but this flowed enough to make 370hp! With my old suck through I used a Harley S&S K&N Pancake circular type - 38mm O/A depth so didn't push my knee out. Several times during 'testing' the engine died through sucking the knee of my jeans into the inlet! LOL
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Post by danm54 on Jul 3, 2013 15:31:19 GMT
Thats interesting, read a bit about top end power loss with an undersized filter.
I could always dyno it with and without a filter I suppose, a smaller one would certainly look better and be easier to tuck away.
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Post by Kristjan on Jul 3, 2013 16:05:45 GMT
Smaller ones also need to be cleaned more often, but that's not a big problem as its always best to take good care of it. Filter filled with crap won't flow anyway.
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Post by maggotbreath on Jul 4, 2013 1:18:50 GMT
Maybe the mushroom style would work, lots of them on evilbay.
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Teresa O.
Velociraptor
Posts: 37
Bikes: Trickframed 1127, Turbo 14 and many more
Reg: May 31, 2013 18:51:42 GMT
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Post by Teresa O. on Jul 4, 2013 6:22:21 GMT
the story about sizing filter-area (coz thats whats it all about)is velocity. If the same airmass has to go through a smaller area filter material the gas-velocity and with it particle speed rises.. At some point particle-velocity is so high it just potrudes the filter (especially sandy stuff)and can harm engine/turbo internals... A really clogged filter on a turbo bike that reduces massflow (turbos are pretty tough on that one compared to N/A) should question the owner ;-)
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Post by danm54 on Jul 14, 2013 10:25:25 GMT
Ive got some RAM air filter sheet on the way, 15mm think with a stainless mesh behind it. Will make up a temp filter to see how well it works and see if it gets in the way. Its easily accessible so not hard to keep clean. Few pics to catch up on, my trigger wheel being made This shows the run if the oil lines to the cooler, they've gone in really well and very discrete Also cut some vents in the undertray for the cooler fans, got one at the bottom drawing air in and the other 2 blowing/sucking through the cooler. Need a lot of tidying up but I'll see if it flows enough air to keep it cool first. Also set the height and made up some dog bones, also still to be finished off as long as they're the right length. The bike sits about an inch higher than my other gsxr but I think it looks right. Got the chain and sprockets here too, the chain caught on the top of the swinger so a massive thanks to WSR for fitting it in to take a little out of it. Pics will follow soon.
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Post by katana on Jul 15, 2013 18:48:41 GMT
If the same airmass has to go through a smaller area filter material the gas-velocity and with it particle speed rises.. Sort of agree with that up to a point! If the inlet to the turbo compressor is say 50mm dia which is 1966.5 sq mm then as long as the filter area equals or exceeds that figure there will be no restriction - it equals 50 x 39mm. The little K&N in my picture above is 70mm deep and about 150mm around!
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Teresa O.
Velociraptor
Posts: 37
Bikes: Trickframed 1127, Turbo 14 and many more
Reg: May 31, 2013 18:51:42 GMT
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Post by Teresa O. on Jul 16, 2013 6:12:56 GMT
+ the additional area through folding the filter-material... I used to worked for a professional rallye raid team and we seriously had to slow down particle speed down coz otherwise the turbos would just eat sand (Even with the cyclone)
That aside.. Area is one thing, pressure drop another. The larger the area, the slower air has to pass the filter material, the lower the pressure drop form one side to the other ;-)
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Post by danm54 on Aug 5, 2013 21:36:11 GMT
Well its been an eventful few weeks to say the least! The bike got a little ride down the road but it was very lumpy and didn't want to rev at all. As well as that, it was really difficult to start and eventually didn't start at all as it was losing rpm signal when cranking. Initially I found a loose ground and found that it didn't really like the 36-1 trigger wheel. With the ground sorted and the 36-1 wheel reduced to a 12-1 wheel it still lost rpm signal when cranking. The wheel would work fine from a drill at all speeds but never on the engine. I resorted to buying an oscilloscope (learning how to use it) and recorded the trace of the wheel/VR sensor and found that after looking for interference problems from the starter and/or wiring it isn't anything like that at all! This is the trace. Now I have to thank Chris from Trigger Wheels for his help and advice so far, I was lost ages ago! The trace shows the signal is being affected by the engine speeding and slowing during cranking, (as mattturbocar said in my other thread) apparently the ECU could have problems picking this up cleanly as there is such a difference in the peak heights and it could well group all the high peaks together and the low peaks together. That would explain why I didn't have any issues picking up and rpm signal with no plugs in! So a 24-1 wheel will be made and this should hopefully sort my problem out. Fingers crossed!
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Post by katana on Aug 6, 2013 17:24:58 GMT
Surely if it has trouble with 36-1 and 12-1........24-1 ain't gonna be any different? I think i'd be looking at -2 teeth to give a good definitive gap or maybe swapping to a Hall sensor that gives a square wave trigger pattern - the amplitude then is irrelevant!
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Post by danm54 on Aug 6, 2013 21:38:41 GMT
Surely if it has trouble with 36-1 and 12-1........24-1 ain't gonna be any different? I think i'd be looking at -2 teeth to give a good definitive gap or maybe swapping to a Hall sensor that gives a square wave trigger pattern - the amplitude then is irrelevant! The ECU has never failed to read the 12-1 wheel from a drill, its only the uneven cranking speed of the engine that's throwing it out. The 36-1 did initially work but I think the tooth gap was too small and the VR sensor was struggling to read the teeth accurately. Especially at high rpm's. The 24-1 should be a good compromise as it'll have a bigger tooth gap for the sensor and more teeth to smooth out the high and low peaks I was reading on the oscilloscope.
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