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Post by andrey on Jan 22, 2015 11:10:55 GMT
Hi...my recent build 88 or 89 GSXR 750 (fast oil ... they called them here at the time  ) engine: stock turbo charger: K03 from VAG 1.8t chassis : 5.5 tire and swing arm for 750W ...and this is for now.     Soooo few questions:  |
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Post by andrey on Jan 22, 2015 13:58:54 GMT
Sooo questions: How to solve problem with fuel cock...now I'll be needing return line for the fuel??? My turbo manifold design is above oil level (center of turbo is 10 mm higher then crankshaft) and I drain oil to pan drainage bolt As you see , this solution is working for now...but after I stop the engine there is few drops of oil in both sides - compressor and turbine. Should I worry about this??? Yesterday when I first started engine only with turbo...the motor lost idle and now it's idles only with half a choke. Yes, now the motor is with changed parameters on exhaust side...but how to adjust carbs now?? |
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Post by fula28 on Jan 22, 2015 16:15:16 GMT
Firstly hi and great first turbo build, you can fit restrictors in oil supply line from supply and at turbo end we used banjo bolts with mikuni main jet fitted 1mm or size (100) both ends restricted this is screwed into a m6 thread, an old emulsion tube from mikuni carb, and pressed into the banjo bolt end, Also worth trying is a small turbo drain pot say enough to hold 60ml of oil , this can then be scavenged back to engine. either with electric 12v gear pump, or empts type pump which is driven from crank, Rh side through side case lots out there available now this is preferable as empts pumps don't fail like 12v electric ones do!
as for carbs I would say try, smaller jets you will be supprised how low you go to get it to run clean, I went from 150mains to 95 mains but all are different be careful, take your time worth noting also your needles and emulsion tubes, need to perfect and super clean if there slightly worn this will cause huge grief setting up.
Good luck.
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Post by gsx on Jan 22, 2015 16:22:28 GMT
Nice build mate , don't see many 750 s done , should be mental
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Post by captain chaos on Jan 22, 2015 16:23:01 GMT
and lower the fuel level around 2mm, stock is 14,5 if I remember correctly so it should be at least 16mm.
The float needles should also be 100% ok. When you pressurize the fuel a very small leak already has a big influence.
Nice Slingy by the way. My first GSX-R was a 750J in the same colours.
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Post by katana on Jan 22, 2015 20:27:18 GMT
Firstly is the turbo from a VAG 1.8 diesel? If so you may be disappointed - I was! I used a new one on an 1100 and it strangled the output - you may be lucky with only a 750! Problem is diesels designed to boost early with a limited rpm range so they run out of oomph on a petrol burner.
Re Oil return i'd be tempted to run the return from the turbo to the clutch cover just above static oil level. Going back to the sump has a weight of oil over it and only when the oil height in the return is higher than the sump oil level will it transfer + any crankcase pressure (common on turbos) reduces this flow even more. If done as I suggest there is no head to over come so better, more reliable drainage is possible.
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Post by andrey on Jan 22, 2015 21:48:12 GMT
Thanx for quick replies. The turbo is from 1.8t petrol engine (very common here in Europe). I try some adjustments this weekend during daytime...my neighbors are not very happy whit my new bike Nobody asked 'bout swingarm  |
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Post by andrey on Jan 25, 2015 19:24:10 GMT
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Post by andrey on Jan 26, 2015 11:36:53 GMT
Fuel cock adapter plate. God bless DIY CNC roters.
And can you show me some solutions about engine ventilation ...catch cans, breathers, return line etc....please!?!?
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Post by slingy1052 on Jan 27, 2015 4:20:27 GMT
Can you show us some more pictures of that diy mill. Looks cool.
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Post by andrey on Jan 27, 2015 7:47:23 GMT
Actually it's CNC router..a friend of mine makes for hobby RC planes,choppers,quadro-copters (this things with cameras), drones and etc. It's not very good for durAl (it's very slow...make this part almost half an hour)  |
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Post by slingy1052 on Jan 27, 2015 10:33:09 GMT
That is cool. God, there's some great home grown CNC stuff getting about. Thanks for sharing
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Post by andrey on Jan 27, 2015 22:22:38 GMT
Question: Is this part have any value, because friend of mine want it...to cut it for cafe-racer tail or something else.    |
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Post by andrey on Jan 28, 2015 23:02:04 GMT
I really hate carbs..uhuuu.)
So the problem..previous owner bought the bike 2005 and never ride it. He sad there is problem with original carbs (36mm MIC) and he bought almost new carbs from Katana....MIC 34. When I get it, da bike runs poorly (only 3 cyl. fired)...I clean carbs, renew all O-rings and bikes begin to start and idle great. 10 days later the only change I made was putting turbo (w/o connecting turbo to the carbs) and now the bike works only with choke and refuse to idle. tonight I checked the valve clearance and it was tight EX was around 0.15 and IN was 0.10. I make them to the specs, but not any change...agrrr.
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Post by slingy1052 on Jan 29, 2015 0:44:30 GMT
You sure nothing else has changed in the last 10 days?
Removed air box to measure up for plenum?
Had carb tops off and not seated diaphragm properly?
Kinked fuel line?
Vacuum line not connected to carbs causing vacuum leak and fuel starvation.?
Low on fuel?
Your focusing on the turbo but I bet it's just a coincidence and it will be something else you've touched without even thinking it would have any problems.
All of the above have caught me out before.
With a blow through the carbs REALLY need to be 100% and it needs to ride well normally aspirated. Any issues Will be amplified when under boost.
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