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Post by andrey on Jan 29, 2015 5:40:04 GMT
The air box is removed (yes I make da plenum now ), so I try to run engine w/o any air filter. But even so, bike should start and run on idle.
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Post by captain chaos on Jan 29, 2015 7:51:23 GMT
With a blow through the carbs REALLY need to be 100% and it needs to ride well normally aspirated. Any issues Will be amplified when under boost. This. First make sure it runs ok NA. If your carbs are metal top ones from an 1100, they will be a pain in the ass on your 750. If they are newer carbs ('98- later, with plastic tops) it might work. I once tried 34mm carbs from a GSX1100F (powerscreen) on a Slingy 750 engine. It would idle, but anything less than 3/4 throttle and it would die. Made riding the thing "interesting".
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Post by slingy1052 on Jan 29, 2015 8:19:16 GMT
The air box is removed (yes I make da plenum now ), so I try to run engine w/o any air filter. But even so, bike should start and run on idle. Sorry on that last post got carried away phone and posted too early. Cv carbs really don't like running without the airbox , not even idling. I dare say that is the problem. Refit it if possible and see if it idles. Or just build your plenum and stick that on, should do the same job. But I would still like to make sure it runs nice without connecting the up pipe all the way through the rev range before trying to problem solve boosted running
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Post by andrey on Jan 29, 2015 11:54:32 GMT
God bless you good people...for the quick replies. I took more serious measurements and the carbs actually are 33mm with 112,5 main and 32,5 pilot jets. Air screw was with tap (that I drilled) and needles are fixed (no possible for changing the high). Membrane covers are plastic. They look like brand new. If I can't handle the jetting probably I go to FI. I really don't want walk this way, I want to keep it simple and the budget is low (only 1500 Euro for materials for entire project). The main problem with FI is ECU...expensive.I work only with Link ECU. I really don't trust Megasquirt, VEMS and other Mega clones. I see terrible engine brake down past the years...but that is different story.
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Post by slingy1052 on Jan 29, 2015 12:47:02 GMT
Ok, so bst33's then. If they are in good nick keep em. The smaller size will be easier to set up and give better low end response. Most jetting change is main jet and needles can be shimmed with washers if need be. Just try and make the plenum to come out easy preferably as a unit with the carbs, as you will be taking them off lots. Also google Uncle Bobs turbo's. It's a REALLY good guide to pitot design and turboing generally. He mentions about tuning using pitot size, so if can make it to get to the end of the pitot tube and plug the end and drill a hole like a jet, you could start with a 3mm hole and work up untill you get the afr you want rather than changing jets.much cheaper and easier
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Post by andrey on Feb 1, 2015 14:30:58 GMT
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Post by andrey on Feb 1, 2015 14:31:54 GMT
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Post by andrey on Feb 2, 2015 8:56:04 GMT
Some drawing or dimensions of intake ports...I want to cut plate for TB
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Post by andrey on Feb 2, 2015 9:18:12 GMT
...or anybody confirm this dimensions?!...someone with spare head
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 2, 2015 11:10:41 GMT
Going efi andrey?
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Post by andrey on Feb 2, 2015 14:08:42 GMT
Yep...This weekend I finished plenum, pressure tested it, made the turbo lines....and nothing changes. So play with the carbs...rise the float level to 14mm and set the air screw to 2 and 1/2 turns. Now I have rough idle whit out choke. The plan is to synchronize the throttles blades and try some adjustments, but damage is done ... in my head. So I start to collect parts like a GSXR TB...A friend of mine give me for free trail ECU...and here is still winter...
P.S. the only good think is that turbo (after some hour work on place) stop oiling after engine stop.
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Post by pasis on Feb 2, 2015 22:56:34 GMT
Nice gsxr!
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 2, 2015 23:32:12 GMT
Yep...This weekend I finished plenum, pressure tested it, made the turbo lines....and nothing changes. So play with the carbs...rise the float level to 14mm and set the air screw to 2 and 1/2 turns. Now I have rough idle whit out choke. The plan is to synchronize the throttles blades and try some adjustments, but damage is done ... in my head. So I start to collect parts like a GSXR TB...A friend of mine give me for free trail ECU...and here is still winter... P.S. the only good think is that turbo (after some hour work on place) stop oiling after engine stop. What pump and regulator are u using? What base fuel pressure? Where are taking the boost pressure reference for the regulator? What have done with the float bowl vent pipes? They need to be connected to a pitot tube in the pressure pipe to the plenum. My bst36's needed like 5 turns out to idle because of the different fuel pressures and Heights and changed airbox. Don't give up so hastily on the carbs. Oh and invest in a wideband sensor. You can't tell shit about what is happening with out one and if going efi you will definitely need one anyway
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Post by andrey on Feb 3, 2015 7:39:35 GMT
1.Malpassi FPR and some Ford 1 bar scavenge fuel pump..but they are not connected. 2.Fuel System is not build yet...so no pressure 3.Reference for da FPR will be from plenum. 4.Vent pipes are connected to pitot pipe. My problem or goal at this point is to run stably engine NA with attached turbo and new plenum. P.S.Sorry for my bad English...but when my mama said 'learn languages, my boy' I wrecked bikes and cars. ....and spacial thanx to slingy1052 for support. P.S. air screw 5 turns out....that's interesting. I never find this information in the web. Thanx again.
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Post by andrey on Feb 4, 2015 21:33:55 GMT
Till I wait for 'watches' for adjusting the throttle blades, I cut the sub frame and try to sort design of new tail. I decided to make new sub frame from oval pipes...to correspond with frame of head light. Local metal shops have oval pipes only in their web sites, but not fro real not in stock. So I bought old supermarket trolley and used base pipes of it.
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