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Post by captain chaos on Feb 5, 2015 7:56:32 GMT
I suggest thread name change to "the Lidl 750 that could"
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Post by andrey on Feb 5, 2015 9:02:43 GMT
BILLA in this particular case
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 5, 2015 9:10:31 GMT
Who needs vacuum gauges (watches) to balance carbs. Practical Performance Bikes did a good right up on making one of these
Does a very good job for little outlay lol
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 5, 2015 9:29:05 GMT
If you're running gravity feed fuel still from the tank I would be removing the up pipe feed from the turbo to the plenum while you play at getting a stable idle as cv carbs are very sensitive and the turbo and uppipe and pitot setup will be having an effect on it. Also the whole reason for raising the measured float height in the carbs is to allow for the increased fuel pressure from the rising rate fuel system over filling the float bowls. If you have already raised the float height while still running gravity feed you will have just caused a very lean running situation.You either need to treat fully Na and have stock float heights, vents to atmosphere and nothing connected to plenum, or build your fuel system, connect everything up and start tuning as pressurised boosted system. Half and half is just going to cause problems I think. Oh and get an O2 wideband sensor. It will save your sanity.
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 5, 2015 9:42:37 GMT
Oh and did I mention, get your self a wideband sensor.
I didn't when I had carbs and lean feels alot like rich. Hard to tell. When I finally borrowed one I was amazed how lean it was running. Lots of turns out on the pilot screws later had it starting and idling real nice. Don't be afraid to move well away from factory settings. There used to be alot of blow through bikes here at one point on the old site, and it was common for them to run 4.5 - 5.5 turns out on the pilot screws from what I can remember.
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Post by andrey on Feb 7, 2015 18:26:47 GMT
Ok the gauges are here...when I cleared the carbs, I made preliminary adjustment of throttle blades with caliper. When I attached the gauges difference between throttles was 0,01-0,02. I planed to buy gauges, but not anymore. But the main problem stays...I can't adjust idle without choke.
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Post by andrey on Feb 14, 2015 19:40:55 GMT
for sale
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Post by andrey on Feb 14, 2015 19:41:43 GMT
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Post by andrey on Feb 15, 2015 5:57:07 GMT
And some questions
1. I found various info 'bout stock Gsxr 600 K1-3 fuel injectors. Some claim 170-240cc...but nothing clear. Have someone here using them and if yes what BHP they cover. 2. I have some BOSCH 300cc injectors, but they are EV1 style (long nose)...as you see, the 'nose' is almost inside TB...is that a big problem.
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Post by arttu on Feb 15, 2015 8:23:23 GMT
1. I found various info 'bout stock Gsxr 600 K1-3 fuel injectors. Some claim 170-240cc...but nothing clear. Have someone here using them and if yes what BHP they cover. They flow about 280cc/min at 3 bar fuel pressure. That's enough for maybe 200hp, definitely not more. Well, the injector nose will disturb air flow slightly but I don't think it will make any significant difference. But since the flow increase compared to the gsx-r ones is minor I wouldn't bother with them.
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 15, 2015 8:59:55 GMT
And some questions 1. I found various info 'bout stock Gsxr 600 K1-3 fuel injectors. Some claim 170-240cc...but nothing clear. Have someone here using them and if yes what BHP they cover. 2. I have some BOSCH 300cc injectors, but they are EV1 style (long nose)...as you see, the 'nose' is almost inside TB...is that a big problem. As Arttu said. If you want to be doubley sure it's not hard to flow test. Set up a 3 bar fuel supply to one injector, then use a square 9v battery to open for 15 seconds. Measure how much squirted out and multiply that by 4 to get your CC a minute. Would be interested to see what they are in real world as like you say, lots of misguided info on the net.
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Post by katana on Feb 15, 2015 12:10:54 GMT
Just out of interest - why a 9v square battery and not a 12v bike one? The latter is probably easier to find lying around a workshop?
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Post by andrey on Feb 15, 2015 19:08:54 GMT
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Post by andrey on Feb 15, 2015 19:16:53 GMT
Some info:
GSXR 750 - oil cooled - have throttle bore center 78-90-78mm GSXR 600 K1-3 - have 80-80-80mm
so I milled 2mm of throttle body 1 and 4 and add spacer bushing 10mm between 2 and 3
GSXR 750 oil - have 42mm rubber boots GSXR 600 K1-3 - have 44mm OD of throttles
so I milled every K1-3 TB to 42mm
...and now everything is matching perfect.
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Post by slingy1052 on Feb 15, 2015 21:18:22 GMT
Just out of interest - why a 9v square battery and not a 12v bike one? The latter is probably easier to find lying around a workshop? Just for easier handling at the bench while testing but also I think it doesn't do the injectors any favours holding a full 12v on to an injector for 15 seconds, especially if low impedance which normally have a peak and hold driver to limit current flow, or resistor pack. Using the 9v battery just eliminates all these variables and gives a safe, reduced voltage to work with.
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