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Post by andrey on Mar 8, 2015 21:28:52 GMT
So...0 degrees in my garage, but warm in my soul. 12-1 trigger works fine...(the master mapper said, that even with 1 will work fine ) This was only initial set ups. Since I have no boost control solenoid, cam sensor, cooler fan, seq ignition I have plenty of free inputs and outputs, I plan to use some of free digital inputs to make start/log button. And...when summer comes I'll make some highway passes and logs to refine tuning. Some questions again: 1. During tuning oil temp reached 120 degrees Celsius (sensor on banjo bolt on main oil gallery)...which oil temp is critical. I need this info to adjust some limits? 2. I wonder ...should I put blow off since I plan to use only low boost (till 7 psi on stock compression)...sound of compressor surging make me mad ..like old Audi S1 rally car.
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Post by captain chaos on Mar 9, 2015 7:58:38 GMT
good semi-synthetic oils can handle up to 140 degrees. I would keep it under 130 to be sure.
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Post by katana on Mar 9, 2015 18:35:24 GMT
BOV ain't there for boost - its to stop surge, compressor blades getting flattened and avoid excessive compressor spool down - no reason not to have one IMO on anything blow through!
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Post by andrey on Mar 9, 2015 22:02:27 GMT
Good spark plugs???
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Post by arttu on Mar 10, 2015 4:55:21 GMT
Standard or one step colder. Or equivalent iridium plugs. Almost anything should work if tuning is right and you aren't pushing out some stupid power (more than 350hp/liter). Based on my experience iridium plugs are slightly more forgiving for wrong mixture though some people claim exact opposite. Go figure
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Post by andrey on Mar 10, 2015 8:46:49 GMT
Thanx for quick replies again ...master builders
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Post by katana on Mar 10, 2015 18:28:58 GMT
One thing we found whilst racing the Iridium tipped plugs are really nasty if they get lean and hot - they work like a glow plug and can diesel the engine so try and stay rich till the map is pretty good / dialed in.
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Post by andrey on Mar 10, 2015 22:30:19 GMT
yes sir!
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Post by andrey on Mar 13, 2015 8:16:59 GMT
OFF TOPIC Gentleman I see in yours avatars different bikes and brands...which is the toughest stock bike/model... ready for force induction ...for all time. Old ZX...our Gixxers
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Post by katana on Mar 13, 2015 18:46:31 GMT
I don't think anyone has managed to top 320 odd hp out of a stock pistoned Busa - turbo and fuel mods and bingo!
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Post by andrey on Mar 15, 2015 15:21:53 GMT
I wait friend of mine to weld intake...till then I play with ECU....stupid but cooool
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Post by andrey on Apr 11, 2015 8:15:50 GMT
Hmmm...questions
When bike idles on stand and I tune it..temp is not stopping to rise. For half an our it riches 100 deg Cel. So this bike can't run on stand??? Or there is a problem on my engine???
P.S.ECU measured the oil temp on banjo bolt of main gallery.Instead of this I have dipstick style temp-meter bolt on place of oil cap, but I'm thinking this meter measure temp of air of crankcases, not da oil temp. When ECU show my 100 deg C this device shows 80 deg Cel...which is true???
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Post by katana on Apr 11, 2015 9:20:11 GMT
There is a radiator and it needs airflow! If you want to run for extended periods indoors PLEASE use a fan that can blow stupid quantities of air over the rad and the engine - cooking it without, is not cool - excuse the pun!
You need the temp sensor in fluid - either sump or cylinder head. The former gives the general oil temp that's getting used, the latter gives peak temps so more extreme. But better to tune for highest scenario's or give yourself some comfort zone if using sump temps.
I wouldn't trust a 'dipstick' temp sensor due to above comment - air is not a good conductor of heat - use correct sensor in correct location for correct reading.
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Post by slingy1052 on Apr 11, 2015 10:38:07 GMT
Hmmm...questions When bike idles on stand and I tune it..temp is not stopping to rise. For half an our it riches 100 deg Cel. So this bike can't run on stand??? Or there is a problem on my engine??? P.S.ECU measured the oil temp on banjo bolt of main gallery.Instead of this I have dipstick style temp-meter bolt on place of oil cap, but I'm thinking this meter measure temp of air of crankcases, not da oil temp. When ECU show my 100 deg C this device shows 80 deg Cel...which is true??? Mine does the same, not too bad just idling but try any revving and temp rapidly goes up and over100. deg. I would trust the ecu value over the dipstick.
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Post by captain chaos on Apr 11, 2015 13:31:16 GMT
the dipstick is not measuring air temp, it gets a lot of oil thrown at it by the clutch. Unscrew it and you'll find out it's wet.
They are not always accurate. I was lucky (mine shows the same as the electronic one on a mate's GSX-R), smetimes they show way too much or too little.
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