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Post by arnout on Mar 15, 2015 18:48:21 GMT
Would using a slightly larger diameter bolt, so as to not be such a sloppy fit through the cases be a safer bet. I may be thinking to much into this but with going through all the trouble of the frame bracing this seems to be a weak area....and over the last few years i noticed them loosening ocasionaly even with lock tight. And the paint slightly rubbed on the inside of the brackets from apparent shifting around "Sloppy fit".. Good point.. Well.. Obviously the idea of using the engine as a stressed member won't work if the engine mounts aren't a tight fit (or there is another way to tighten them up to prevent any movement).. This was the point I tried to make in my earlier post: The engine mounts are the first link in the chain.. All elements must be rigid enough to pass on the the forces placed upon it without deforming.. So not just preventing the bolts from moving around in the mounts, but making the mounts themselve more rigid too.. Only after this step frame bracing (the other links in the chain) has any use (with regards to making the engine a stressed member).. As for ways to achieve a slop free engine mount I'd say there are a number of options (re-machine parts so these have a tighter fit | use something (bushes, epoxy, ?) to fill the gaps | increase friction of the mating surfaces | etc..)
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madmikeracing
Velociraptor
Posts: 28
Reg: Jun 11, 2014 13:07:59 GMT
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Post by madmikeracing on Mar 21, 2015 17:46:09 GMT
Hi Just reading over some older Posts. i use the tapped engine as stressed member on my sprint engines. It doesn't seem to cause any issues whatsoever. Just Tap it straight and Bobs you're Uncle no Problems. People over think the simple things too often. Mike
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gsryder
Velociraptor
Posts: 34
Reg: Aug 22, 2013 18:31:24 GMT
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Post by gsryder on Mar 23, 2015 0:58:24 GMT
Awesome! Thats the kinda of info i was hoping to hear. Much apprecited to all who chimed in.
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coombehouse
Velociraptor
Posts: 34
Reg: May 1, 2013 22:54:41 GMT
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Post by coombehouse on Apr 10, 2015 23:42:14 GMT
I did try this about 25 years ago. I used 7/16inch diameter silver steel as its strong & easy to get. I reamed the holes with a reamer with an extension brazed to it so I could line ream everything. It worked OK but didn't make a massive difference as you really need to improve the engine mount plate to frame interface too with a much better design, stiffer plates, tight bolt holes, lots of work. I lost interest in the end & just rode it.
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