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Post by zooma on May 24, 2015 21:26:15 GMT
If it is knackered, cut the old boss out and have a new one welded in; finger's crossed it's just the lower edge. edit - see pics 13 to 17 on Porky's Katana build Katana
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Post by Devilman on May 24, 2015 21:43:10 GMT
If it is knackered, cut the old boss out and have a new one welded in; finger's crossed it's just the lower edge. edit - see pics 13 to 17 on Porky's Katana build Katana Hmm.. quite an interesting solution... a bit drastic perhaps for me, I don't really want to have to strip the whole bike down to repaint after etc... I have been considering the other option, which is to have the bosses milled down, A lot of the later arms we like to put on our bikes (late date GSXR and similar) are 228 - 232 at the pivot... Could have the bosses milled back flat (and taken down by 5mm per side) to get a 230mm width between the bosses. Many options... few decisions lol
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Post by zooma on May 24, 2015 21:50:34 GMT
Hmm.. quite an interesting solution... a bit drastic perhaps for me, I don't really want to have to strip the whole bike down to repaint after etc... I have been considering the other option, which is to have the bosses milled down, A lot of the later arms we like to put on our bikes (late date GSXR and similar) are 228 - 232 at the pivot... Could have the bosses milled back flat (and taken down by 5mm per side) to get a 230mm width between the bosses. Many options... few decisions lol A bit drastic for me too mate but just throwing it your way as an option. Think your idea to get the bosses milled down would work, or what about having someone build up some weld on the area that's iffy and then carefully grind it back down to the right spec. I'll resist the urge to say turn it into a unicycle
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Post by Devilman on May 24, 2015 22:05:17 GMT
1200 Motor and a big rear sprocket and it'll be a unicycle anytime ya want lol The weld is a possibility, though I suspect that again, it would need a full stripdown and repaint, due to the heat of the welding. Still, it's certainly another option to put in the pile, appreciate the input Cheers peeps
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Post by zooma on May 24, 2015 23:40:26 GMT
1200 Motor and a big rear sprocket and it'll be a unicycle anytime ya want lol Haha, now ya talkin'! .... still, never let it be said that the unicycle route ain't an option ....
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Post by Devilman on May 25, 2015 0:23:01 GMT
LOL damn, that looks even more dangerous than those fancy new ones you see like something from men in black, with the bigass wheel that you sit inside Bet it was crazy italian's who dreamed that thing up lol
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Post by zooma on May 25, 2015 8:15:09 GMT
LOL damn, that looks even more dangerous than those fancy new ones you see like something from men in black, with the bigass wheel that you sit inside Bet it was crazy italian's who dreamed that thing up lol lol, mental innit smileywtf .... best STFU now or I'll be getting my first court martial for straying off topic I'll pass the baton over to someone who can offer some more "sensible" advice
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Post by fatblokeonbandit on May 25, 2015 8:32:36 GMT
first id degrease the lot and have a good look at how square the left boss is, if its not recoverable then do what I did abouve, get the swinger you want, slingy or k series and cut the bosses down to size, the picture isn't my bike but its exactly how I did it, spacer over the boss at the right size, then I used a grinder with 1mm disc and a flap wheel to get it all tidy, or use a file like this bloke...
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Post by busaash on May 25, 2015 9:26:58 GMT
All good info garry , always nice to see help threads on here getting lots of interest
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Post by Devilman on May 25, 2015 14:22:08 GMT
first id degrease the lot and have a good look at how square the left boss is, if its not recoverable then do what I did abouve, get the swinger you want, slingy or k series and cut the bosses down to size, the picture isn't my bike but its exactly how I did it, spacer over the boss at the right size, then I used a grinder with 1mm disc and a flap wheel to get it all tidy, or use a file like this bloke...
Nice.... Interesting way to do it, thanks for the info FBB, really appreciate the time and help your giving me here Couple of quick Q's.... Does the spacer have to be "angled" in any way to make the above method work, or is it exactly the same length all sides (if ya see what I mean), I asume the "sideplates" of the frame that the bosses are part of are exactly upright and parallel, else it'd not work, right? Angle grinder... were you not worried that the grinder may end up taking material off the spacer and end up with a miss-shaped (or not totally flat) boss? Cheers guys
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Post by Devilman on May 25, 2015 18:19:08 GMT
So, spent some time today with the degreaser getting things cleaned up so I could get some accurate measurements, boy was it filthy back there. I also gently filed off the burr that was present on the left boss then slid the pivot bolt through with the crush tube and 1 inner bearing race on it. From previous measurements I knew I needed something 28mm long to fill the rest of the gap so it would nip up tight, so found an appropriate length socket and used it as a spacer to just nip up the pivot bolt so everthing stayed put. (Interesting thing to note... the socket fitted at the bottom of the right boss, but was a fraction too tight at the top, regardless of where I turned the crush tube (or bearing at the other end) Does this perhaps mean the tolerances on these frames are not that fine?) As you can see, it definitely seems as if the boss has been worn slightly, there is a tiny gap at the bottom, while its tight at the top. This gap did alter slightly when rotating the bearing race, so perhaps again, tolerances are not as fine as I may have thought? Around the bottom I have a 10thou gap, from approximately 5 o'clock position to 7 o'clock position. Obviously this decreases as you move around the "clock face" in either direction. Once you get up to around the 10 o'clock position (and approx 2 o'clock on the other side) a 3thou feeler guage wont go any further and obviously the gap closes to 0 very shortly after. So there we have it... What do you guys think? Am I worrying over nothing and the tolerances on the frames are just not as fine as I thought they might have been (since what I previously mentioned about the socket / right boss), or do I need to get the grinder out and straighten this out? Cheers all
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Post by zooma on May 25, 2015 19:09:26 GMT
Think the leverage effect might magnify that tiny amount when the s/arm is checked over at MOT time; personally, I'd buy whatever s/arm you're going for and do a dry run, then see if there's any movement. Always better to get a second opinion so be interesting to see what everyone else has to say.
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Post by fatblokeonbandit on May 25, 2015 19:55:11 GMT
so 7 thou difference, 0.177mm, id file it flat and fit a bandit swinger and crack on,
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Post by Devilman on May 25, 2015 23:05:27 GMT
so 7 thou difference, 0.177mm, id file it flat and fit a bandit swinger and crack on, 10thou total. The bearing is nipped up tight in the pic and obviously there is 0 gap there, down to 10thou at the bottom. Ya reckon the best course of action is to just file it back flat / true to the frame and leave it at that, since 10thou is not much at all? I was surprised when I tried to put the socket in the other side and it'd only go in at the bottom / middle but not the top, that was the first thought that maybe I am expecting things to be "too exact". If that's the case, is there anything to be gained at all from taking a file to this side? Seems as though the right side is not 100% exact anyway? (or lets face it, if the crush tube, or either inner bearing race are not "exact" the same thing would happen I guess? Just not sure I like the idea of the thing only effectively being "nipped up" between a tiny contact point that is maybe 120degrees wide, of the total 360 degrees. With regard to the spacer made up to grind / file down the bosses, was it just larger than the diameter of the boss and then sat down against the weld, or was it "shouldered" inside so it sat over the weld and down against the frame itself? Kinda hard to tell in the pic, but obviously I'm thinking that if it was just down against the weld it may also not end up exactly perpendicular to the spindle bolt, as welds are rarely perfect Cheers peeps BTW Fbob, any idea if 1250 arms fit into our frames? I checked the bearing numbers etc.. and they are all the same, as is the spindle part number, which suggests they are the same length, but don't know if they are any wider at the pivot and slimmer in the frame (or vice-verca)
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Post by fatblokeonbandit on May 27, 2015 17:53:13 GMT
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