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Post by Devilman on May 27, 2015 19:16:35 GMT
Nice spot there Fbob, appreciate the link... Bit of a trek to wales though to collect lol. I got no worries with modding the frame bosses etc.. to fit other arms, I guess I am just being overly cautious about things. (I like to measure 10 times, cut once lol) How flat do these really *need* to be? seems you have no worries doing yours with a grinder and others with files and such which suggests it doesn't need to be 110% pinpoint accurate, cus I can't imagine a grinder with a flap disc can get them totally flat? I'm in 2 minds right now as to whether to strip the rest of the bike and repaint the frame etc.. its got a bit of surface rust creeping into the usual places so would be a great time to do it and if I am already that far in... might aswell fancy it up a bit with a nicer swingarm lol Did you also use the "collars" approach when grinding down your bosses fbob, or did you have another method to ensure you got them flat, level and the correct length? Cheers
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Post by captain chaos on May 27, 2015 19:25:45 GMT
I'm in 2 minds right now as to whether to strip the rest of the bike and repaint the frame etc.. considering the state the rear end is in, I'm surprised you are thinking about leaving the rest alone.
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Post by Devilman on May 27, 2015 19:44:05 GMT
I'm in 2 minds right now as to whether to strip the rest of the bike and repaint the frame etc.. considering the state the rear end is in, I'm surprised you are thinking about leaving the rest alone. A fair point well made... Your right, considering what was done already, I guess it would be for the best to strip her down and make sure the USD conversion on the front isn't held on with chewing gum or something.... I was being rather short-sighted and weighing up the pro's and con's from a work perspective, rather than a sensible one lol. Well, I guess I'll be stripping her down this weekend and checking all bearings / seals etc.. before painting and reassembly. Guess I need to decide what rear-end to put into it... It is tempting to just "stock B6 it" front and rear so I have a USD frontend for my slingy, as long as 10thou extra off a swingarm boss won't cause the frame to get pinched too hard when assembled. It's tempting to put the K1 arm I have into it, but the 6" rear would be rather wasted on a B6 lol Decisions Decisions lol... Someone choose for me..... please? LOL
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Post by teaman on May 27, 2015 20:45:51 GMT
My b6 had a b12 swingarm when i bought it, but it was fitted with the bearing bushes from the b6 swinger, which are shorter, so there had been a gap between the bush and the bosses before it got torqued up, so the frame was squeesed in about 3-4 mm total.. Had to squeese the frame back out when I got the right bushes for the b12 swinger.
Surprises Surprises ...
I would file the left boss down and use a 1 mm washer.
As for the shock, that is too long, it looks the same as the first one I bought before getting an r6. The knuckle has to be further up for the pivot to work correctly. Either get a shorter shock, or move the knuckle down on the frame.
If it's any help I have some Photos of the scenario in my b6 project thread.
Btw. I highly recommend the r6 shock, it works wonderful on the road.
And again btw ! Dont b6 the swinger, total nonsense not to get a b12 swinger. Imo the b12 swinger is the perfect upgrade on a b6 since it's a straight swap, and if it isnt trick enough for you, get it braced, alot of people have used one from an r1 swinger which fits quite well with only small modifications necessary.
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Post by Devilman on May 27, 2015 21:17:53 GMT
My b6 had a b12 swingarm when i bought it, but it was fitted with the bearing bushes from the b6 swinger, which are shorter, so there had been a gap between the bush and the bosses before it got torqued up, so the frame was squeesed in about 3-4 mm total.. Had to squeese the frame back out when I got the right bushes for the b12 swinger. Surprises Surprises ... I would file the left boss down and use a 1 mm washer. As for the shock, that is too long, it looks the same as the first one I bought before getting an r6. The knuckle has to be further up for the pivot to work correctly. Either get a shorter shock, or move the knuckle down on the frame. If it's any help I have some Photos of the scenario in my b6 project thread. Btw. I highly recommend the r6 shock, it works wonderful on the road. And again btw ! Dont b6 the swinger, total nonsense not to get a b12 swinger. Imo the b12 swinger is the perfect upgrade on a b6 since it's a straight swap, and if it isnt trick enough for you, get it braced, alot of people have used one from an r1 swinger which fits quite well with only small modifications necessary. Hmm, surprised the swinger wasn't bound up against the bosses with the frame getting pinched in 3-4mm, I would imagine that took up any of the "free play" between the swinger itself and the bosses. The shock... yes indeed, not at home currently so haven't been able to check it, but I think it's miss-matched parts anyway. The shock body looks like K1/K2 1000, but I think its got a K3/K4 spring on it (K1/K2 had red spring, this has yellow). I'm not 100% certain on this, but the spring seems to have WAY too much free play with the preload adjusters backed right off, compared to the K1 shock (with red spring) I have for another project. Complete B12 arm's seem harder to come by now days and it's always the little bits (spindle, spacers, caliper bracket etc..) that all add up and end up making it cost a bomb. I seen a few swingers on the bay, but most are literally bare swingers, no slipper pad, spindles or even the chain adjusters!) I was wondering whether the 1250 arm would fit, with its caliper above the arm (might at least keep it out of the crud a bit more) but am unsure what the dimensions of those are. I guess if I wanted to take the easiest "fancy upgrade" available to me, I would stick the K1 1000 arm I have into it (after grinding back the bosses) and then run the K7/K8 shock (I think it is?) as Fbob said he's fitted several and they fit real nice and work well together (I hope it won't be too hard since I barely weigh 10stone - about 65kg) I'll take a look at your thread and see what the fitment is like for the R6 shock, maybe it'll be a tad softer for me than a K7/K8 that Fbob uses, I figure if it fits a bandit arm, it should fit the K1 arm too
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Post by teaman on May 27, 2015 22:18:20 GMT
My b6 had a b12 swingarm when i bought it, but it was fitted with the bearing bushes from the b6 swinger, which are shorter, so there had been a gap between the bush and the bosses before it got torqued up, so the frame was squeesed in about 3-4 mm total.. Had to squeese the frame back out when I got the right bushes for the b12 swinger. Surprises Surprises ... I would file the left boss down and use a 1 mm washer. As for the shock, that is too long, it looks the same as the first one I bought before getting an r6. The knuckle has to be further up for the pivot to work correctly. Either get a shorter shock, or move the knuckle down on the frame. If it's any help I have some Photos of the scenario in my b6 project thread. Btw. I highly recommend the r6 shock, it works wonderful on the road. And again btw ! Dont b6 the swinger, total nonsense not to get a b12 swinger. Imo the b12 swinger is the perfect upgrade on a b6 since it's a straight swap, and if it isnt trick enough for you, get it braced, alot of people have used one from an r1 swinger which fits quite well with only small modifications necessary. Hmm, surprised the swinger wasn't bound up against the bosses with the frame getting pinched in 3-4mm, I would imagine that took up any of the "free play" between the swinger itself and the bosses. The shock... yes indeed, not at home currently so haven't been able to check it, but I think it's miss-matched parts anyway. The shock body looks like K1/K2 1000, but I think its got a K3/K4 spring on it (K1/K2 had red spring, this has yellow). I'm not 100% certain on this, but the spring seems to have WAY too much free play with the preload adjusters backed right off, compared to the K1 shock (with red spring) I have for another project. Complete B12 arm's seem harder to come by now days and it's always the little bits (spindle, spacers, caliper bracket etc..) that all add up and end up making it cost a bomb. I seen a few swingers on the bay, but most are literally bare swingers, no slipper pad, spindles or even the chain adjusters!) I was wondering whether the 1250 arm would fit, with its caliper above the arm (might at least keep it out of the crud a bit more) but am unsure what the dimensions of those are. I guess if I wanted to take the easiest "fancy upgrade" available to me, I would stick the K1 1000 arm I have into it (after grinding back the bosses) and then run the K7/K8 shock (I think it is?) as Fbob said he's fitted several and they fit real nice and work well together (I hope it won't be too hard since I barely weigh 10stone - about 65kg) I'll take a look at your thread and see what the fitment is like for the R6 shock, maybe it'll be a tad softer for me than a K7/K8 that Fbob uses, I figure if it fits a bandit arm, it should fit the K1 arm too Actually the b6 bushes fit the b12 swingarm, and they are sticking out so they will sit against the bosses like they should, but as they are shorter the swingarm was then just 3-4 mm narrower, and im not sure the previous owner realised that before tightening the axle. Have you checked the german ebay for b12 parts? There are loads of Stuff like spindles and what else you might need if you dont find a complete swinger. Getting parts from Germany to the uk is no problem. Im weighing 65 myself and the r6 shock feels perfect with standard middle settings, it has three different places you can adjust, spring preload and dont remember the other two.. Dont know about your height, but Im 170 cm, so this shock was perfect as it's the exact same length as stock, keeping the standard seat height, also a good fit on the bike.
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Post by teaman on May 27, 2015 22:23:16 GMT
I just remembered that the spring on the shock I bought that looks like yours, is quite thicker than the r6, so maybe it would be too hard but dont know for sure cause it's longer aswell. I have a picture in my thread with all three beside eachother for comparison
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Post by zooma on May 27, 2015 22:49:05 GMT
Have you checked the german ebay for b12 parts? There are loads of Stuff like spindles and what else you might need if you dont find a complete swinger. Getting parts from Germany to the uk is no problem. That's a damn good tip... don't mean to stray off topic with this but the German ebay has far more parts for the GSX Inazuma too
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Post by Devilman on May 30, 2015 20:06:26 GMT
Well, decided to take captain chaos's advice and bite the bullet. Started stripping the bike down today, everything is off baring the front end and lifting out the motor. Gonna need to give it some major degreasing lol, its filthy under the motor / suspension linkage area and near the chain run. Got price enquiry going into a local powdercoating firm who are well known for doing great works, hopefully if it's not too expensive I'll get the frame blasted and coated. (Apparently new hammerite is shit and not worth painting frames with anymore). Still undecided what to do in terms of the rear end... I could mod it out to put my K1 swinger/wheel etc.. into it, but from looking at fbob's experiences putting a 6" rim into a bandit, I'm not sure it's worth the expense and work (Also, a 6" rim in a B6 just seems a bit silly lol). I was thinking about a K model 750 wheel (5.5" rim) which should in theory fit without needing to chop about the sprocket carrier and what-not since a 180 tyre on 5.5" rim should hopefully clear the chainrun without issue, but again, that all gets a bit expensive having to buy another wheel etc.. Or I take the other route and seek out a complete B12 arm, file the left boss down flat again and drop the arm in. Since I would only be slimming the boss down by about 10thou, would it even be nessesary to put a washer of any kind in there? If so, I guess it would be better to grind it back farther so a washer of reasonable thickness can be used (1mm or so I'm guessing would be ok) Will take some pics tomorrow and maybe even make a project log for the rebuild, as depending on the price of the powdercoating etc.. I might repaint the whole thing
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