fish91
Oviraptor
Posts: 14
Reg: May 31, 2015 13:35:28 GMT
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Post by fish91 on Jun 13, 2015 18:05:04 GMT
Evening guys,
what i'm thinking of doing as a step in the right direction is to leave the pair valve attached but block off the relevant pipework... unless someone can recommend somewhere I can buy blanking plates. As for the front suspension after doing some research as I right in saying gsxr1000K forks are identical but have rebound adjustment too? The front brake I bled again today with absolutely no air in the system but the lever on full extension still just about touches the bar on emergency braking. Time for a new master cylinder?
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Post by slim on Jun 13, 2015 18:18:35 GMT
Re the brakes .... the problem could lie with the aftermarket lever there are a lot of cheap ones out there that just push the piston a little so it never fully returns making proper bleeding impossible, whip it off & either use a stock one to bleed up or something blunt to push the piston
Once bled up properly if you can see it pushing the piston slightly you can file a little material from the lever to stop that happening but go easy & keep test fitting as if you take too much off it will rattle about like mad
re the pairs system ..... chuck it & blank off the holes in the front of the engine with either ally plates or the ends off the stock pipes with the holes welded up
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fish91
Oviraptor
Posts: 14
Reg: May 31, 2015 13:35:28 GMT
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Post by fish91 on Jun 14, 2015 12:44:54 GMT
Just had a got at the front brake, you were right only fractionally pushed in but it's made a difference. Not perfect but a little better!
Is there someone out there making blanking plates? Just wana keep the system in a bag should I need it one day lol
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Post by katana on Jun 14, 2015 14:48:44 GMT
Big CC usually has some on the shelf?
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fish91
Oviraptor
Posts: 14
Reg: May 31, 2015 13:35:28 GMT
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Post by fish91 on Jun 14, 2015 15:59:31 GMT
Big CC usually has some on the shelf? Can't see anything on their website, perhaps worth a phone call tomorrow. Ok guys that's a couple problems being resolved. Now moving onto the suspension, rear shock wise I want a direct replacement in length and with damping adjustment is this possible or will a replacement from another bike involve pissing around with the dog bones?
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fish91
Oviraptor
Posts: 14
Reg: May 31, 2015 13:35:28 GMT
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Post by fish91 on Jul 5, 2015 18:21:03 GMT
Right made my own blanking plates using some Alu plate. Fantastic.
Now my head gasket has gone, it's weeping from the front left of engine. Tried to re-torque but it was ok on that front. Also the engine burns oil 2000/1. Half tempted to give up but I do quite like the bike. With a new headgasket presumably will need a skim... I will check with a flat edge first tho. However what's the deal with getting a thinner HG and getting a little extra torque out of it and perhaps trying to stop this oil burning problem... Perhaps even a cam out of a gsxr1100.
Can you guys give me a heads up if this affects fuelling at all and some recommendations on what's worth doing?
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Post by jaydee on Jul 5, 2015 18:58:28 GMT
If it's weeping oil on one side it's probably (9 times out of 10) just a gasket oil seal after perishing. If you have the head off, clean it's gasket mating surface with some 1500 wet and dry. Then check with a straight edge for warpage. Oil cooled motors can take a fair bit of heat and abuse. When you are putting a new head gasket on, you'll need 6 new head gasket oil seals and 4 new o-rings for the oil drain pipes. ALWAYS use genuine Suzuki seals.
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Post by jaydee on Jul 5, 2015 19:08:31 GMT
the engine burns oil 2000/1. what's the deal with getting a thinner HG and getting a little extra torque out of it and perhaps trying to stop this oil burning problem Are you sure it's burning oil. I don't fill mine any more than halfway. Oil cooled motors will get rid of any extra, burns off and is sucked out the breather and back throught the motor via the airbox. Ever notice the oil in the bottom of the air box? Was the bike suffering from heavy white exhaust fumes? As for using a thinner H.G? Thinner gasket might not leave much of a squish. Bandits optimum squish should be something like 0.95mm I.I.R.C. You could advance the timing for more compression or go looking for a dot head if more compression is desired. Just my 2 cents.
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fish91
Oviraptor
Posts: 14
Reg: May 31, 2015 13:35:28 GMT
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Post by fish91 on Jul 5, 2015 20:00:45 GMT
Hi guys,
Well it's leaking from the metal gasket where the head and block join so I'd assume a HG can't see any other seals there. As for burning oil, it seems to want topping up quite often, tho there is oil/petrol leaking from the bottom of air box. It had nothing in it last week but there hasn't been any oily fumes...
Well I could leave the engine stock and just carry on with it as it is. Just looking for suggestions
Advance the timing? Tell me more?
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