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Post by CHR15 on Jan 11, 2014 17:01:14 GMT
msa approved isolator switch. upgraded to the msextra firmware; loads more options to twiddle with we have life! fuel pump primes, injector primepulse function works, but i cant crank it till the oil coolers are fitted.
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Post by gsxhartley on Jan 11, 2014 17:36:27 GMT
I think it's terrible what you've done. How can you put a half eaten choccy biscuit down. You really have to eat it all straight away.
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Post by captain chaos on Jan 11, 2014 18:34:24 GMT
I think it's terrible what you've done. How can you put a half eaten choccy biscuit down. You really have to eat it all straight away. +1. You should be banned from OSS for this.
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Post by CHR15 on Jan 11, 2014 19:31:08 GMT
i ran out of coffee to dunk it in it'll still be there tomorrow to finish.
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Post by fula28 on Jan 11, 2014 19:45:52 GMT
Superb lol it allways amazes me what else is in shot when we take a progress piccy !!! Keep it up chris looks great and yep you must finish each biscuit it's the Law...
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Post by CHR15 on Jan 16, 2014 19:13:29 GMT
tried to fire it up tonight. made some very impressive bangs and blew the tb's off the engine a few times. also managed to backfire so hard it undid the bolt that holds the sprag clutch onto the crank lol.
i got pissed off with it so its been put to bed for today.
i was sat having a beverage and it occurred to me that i might have set the wrong tooth#1 offset.
tooth#1 is 80 clockwise degrees before tooth#tdc1 so i entered 80 into the offset. i think i should have entered 280 instead because your always supposed to measure from tooth#1 to tdc1 in the running direction of the engine which is clockwise.
which would explain the lulzy explosions / backfires because the plugs would be firing just after bdc exhaust on 1 and bdc compression on 4.
on the plus side theres no fuel leaks and it doesn't leak too much oil (for a bandit engine)
will play again tomorrow.
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Post by danm54 on Jan 16, 2014 19:56:20 GMT
I came across the same problem when working it out for mine, there's 2 different ways of doing it depending on your ecu version and there's nothing to tell you which is which.
I measured mine clock wise I think, so the centre of the #1 (missing) tooth arrived 90 degrees btdc which puts my tooth #1 offset at 270 degrees.
But I done the same as you if I remember right!
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Post by CHR15 on Jan 16, 2014 20:12:09 GMT
i've got vague memories of when i did this the first time round a few years ago that i set it to 80 and it wouldn't run so i measured it the other way (280) and it worked fine.
that'll teach me to not back up the tune and accidentally flash a blank one onto the ms lol.
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Post by captain chaos on Jan 16, 2014 20:19:50 GMT
tried to fire it up tonight. made some very impressive bangs and blew the tb's off the engine a few times. also managed to backfire so hard it undid the bolt that holds the sprag clutch onto the crank lol. that's what you get for not finishing biscuits right away. Karma's a bitch.
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Post by arttu on Jan 17, 2014 6:17:50 GMT
A good practice is to check ignition timing with timing light before trying actually start the engine. There are about dozen ways to mess timing with settings or trigger installation so even if you think you have everything right it doesn't guarantee anything. Of course it's usually impossible to get accurate timing when just cranking the engine but at least you can see if it is in the right ballpark. Once you get the engine running you can check again and get accurate result.
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Post by CHR15 on Jan 17, 2014 17:14:20 GMT
i tried again today with the 280 degree setting and it just blew the tb's and undid the starter clutch again.
ive got a windowed ignition cover somewhere and a timing light so thats tomorrows job.
the only other thing is that the revs seem to jump around like mad when cranking and the 'sync' light flashes from red to green.
ive done like 2000 miles with that rotor / hall sensor so i dont understand why its playing up.
is it possible to wire a hall sensor in backwards?
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Post by arttu on Jan 17, 2014 18:18:46 GMT
Jumping revs and flashing sync light are indicators of trigger signal problems. The ECU doesn't get stable trigger pattern. So no point to fiddle with timing settings before you get that sorted out. It might be possible to wire a hall sensor wrong such way that you can still get some signal but I think it's unlikely. What kind sensor and wheel you are using? I have read it from your old project thread but can't recall anymore
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Post by CHR15 on Jan 17, 2014 18:27:37 GMT
the original bandit pick up with a 36-1 wheel mounted onto a stock centre: the sensor is wired to the ecu using raychem 2 core twisted + screened cable.
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Post by arttu on Jan 17, 2014 19:14:28 GMT
Ok, more clear now. That pickup is a VR sensor, not hall. And you can connect a VR sensor both ways and get some kind signal but only another one is correct. If the connection is wrong way around symptoms may vary from completely missing signal to wandering timing. So might be a good idea to try reversing the wires first.
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Post by CHR15 on Jan 17, 2014 19:39:37 GMT
will try swapping the wires round tomorrow! fingers crossed.
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