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Post by busaash on Oct 25, 2013 13:50:05 GMT
the black bike looks really good , this looks like a great project in the making , good luck
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Post by baldrick on Nov 1, 2013 9:47:18 GMT
You mioght want to re-think the fuel injection route. Ive never sen a totally succesful instal on one of these old bikes, and there is the added hassle of fabricating cam sensors, and all the electricery that goes with Fi. etc etc. A motec would be dearer than a set of keihin FCR's (the best carbs IMO) Even a set of GSXR carbs, correctly set up ( makes a BIG diffference to these motors. see here. www.theflyingbanana.com/gsxrcarbies.htmIt would be far more cost effective to buy a set of flatslides, but hey its your choice. What are you doing with the back wheel? You going bigger, given that a gsxr is 120, and a gsx rear is 130 or so, it might create a mismatch. Bandit wheels fit, as far as i know, and i believe that you could go to 160 with nothing more than an offset sprocket. Good shout on the offset for the yokes. I always find the front wheel is a long way away after getting off modern bikes, and it would definitely help handling. Looking forward to seeing this develop. Good luck with it.
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Post by captain chaos on Nov 3, 2013 7:12:00 GMT
As I said, each to their own. You work how you want and do what your like to your bikes. If you're happy with the results then great, but there's no need to jump into a post with a 'what are you pissing about at' attitude. Yes you're right. Maybe it was the beer i had yesterday which made me write it, usually i do it in a more diplomatic way And by the way, are you trying to replicate the 1100M's geometry? Because what works for an 1100M might not work for an 1100ET. Weight distribution, overall weight, center of gravity, wheelbase, they all affect handling.
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Post by busaash on Nov 3, 2013 10:05:04 GMT
I agree with the changes you suggest imago , also I know what you ment when you said about the fi idea , its because you want to make the bike better and different . I have taken longer to do source parts for most of my builds as I want to use exotic parts that don't just bolt in , I chose mv agusta wheels and discs with zx 10 forks and Suzuki bottom yoke and had to have slingshot frame machined/milled and yoke stem made ,yes it was a pain in the arse but I kept on with it and it is done now. my bike my way . a set of offset yokes or a custom offset top yoke will have you in the right place I am sure.
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Post by captain chaos on Nov 3, 2013 11:02:02 GMT
Now i got it.
Will be interesting to see if your bike will handle exactly as you expect when it's finished. Would also be nice to compare it to a "thrown together bike" like mine, to see if it's really different.
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Post by imago on Nov 3, 2013 11:11:49 GMT
That pretty much sums up where I'm going with it. It's not about criticising the way others have done it, or trying to be clever and create something superior. It's all about doing something different and enjoying the challenge and work along the way. Too much typing and to few pictures on this thread so far. To redress the balance these illustrate what I was talking about with the front end. I used the black bike to demonstrate as it's easier to see the before and after positions. This shows the original spindle position (black dot top left) and the spindle position with the USD's (black dot top right). It also shows the new rim and tyre contact positions with a 17" rim, and the white stick showing vertical with the other showing rake. This one shows how the new positions will increase the trail from the standard 103mm to 130mm. Great for stability in a straight line, but not so good if you want to throw it into bends. It also shows that the front end will sit @ 50mm lower with the new trye and rim. I'll have to wait until I have them before I can get an exact figure, but it's close enough for now. To reduce the trail I can either alter the headstock angle (rake) or I can use the top yolk to bring the top of the forks out. Doing it using the yolks means that I can keep the offset of the lower yolk at 30mm and take the top yolk offset out to @ 38mm. This photo shows how keeping the offset at or above 30mm will save me from any clearance issues, and also allow me to keep the amount of lock I have now which will mean low speed turning won't be affected.
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Post by busaash on Nov 3, 2013 19:51:08 GMT
good luck with the build , will keep an eye on this
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Post by clivegto on Nov 4, 2013 19:01:03 GMT
Hi imago,i am interested in what you come up with for the yokes, drawings would be good.
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quexpress
Velociraptor
Posts: 39
Bikes: 2 X 1980 GSX1100ET, 1985 GV1200, 2000 Valkyrie
Reg: May 21, 2013 0:12:58 GMT
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Post by quexpress on Nov 4, 2013 20:50:28 GMT
Bookmarked! This is great info! Thanks!
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Post by imago on Nov 14, 2013 14:31:58 GMT
I haven't had time to do much of the set up, but things are arriving and the plan is firming up now. Once I've had chance to measure up properly I can get the yolks sorted and see what length shocks I need. Then get the wheels and do a dry build. Once that's done it can be ripped apart again and get everything away for refurb and treating. I've decided I'm going to get the fork stanchions nitrided black. The fork outers and the swing arm will be anodised black. With black rims and frame I think it'll look the nuts. I'm not sure about the bodywork yet, but at the moment pearl white is favourite, a close second are Gulf race colours. Plenty of time to decide on that though.
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Post by captain chaos on Nov 14, 2013 14:40:15 GMT
but at the moment pearl white is favourite, a close second are Gulf race colours. Plenty of time to decide on that though. please go for the gulf colours. I don't want to look like a copycat, my EFE will be all black with white (original EFE) bodywork
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Post by baldrick on Nov 15, 2013 20:26:21 GMT
Taking shape nicely there imago. Gotta love it when a plan comes together. It will be interesting to see the yoke drawings, if you dont mind like?
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Post by busaash on Nov 15, 2013 21:54:58 GMT
that's a proper old skool approach , and info share is what makes oss the best resource for Suzuki build info
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Post by captain chaos on Nov 16, 2013 8:12:52 GMT
(...) leading me towards an oil cooled lump. Jury's still out, but it does make sense. if only just to make the purists get butthurt.... DOOOOO EEEET
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Post by imago on Dec 9, 2013 16:01:45 GMT
So, as we all like pictures here are some of the set up photo's to get an idea of what it'll sit like. It's thrown up a few questions but I'll get to that. This is the set up with the export tank and the headlamp sitting low. The same but with the headlamp raised. I don't like the headlamp up high, and I'm not keen on the export tank as it makes the top of the bike look too slim. Soo .... UK tank and the headlamp in the lower position gives it a nice line IMHO. Final pic for now with a standard ET for comparison, and I think it looks decent.
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