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Post by Devilman on May 22, 2015 22:59:25 GMT
Anyone can help me out with a bit of service-manual info for a K5 B12.. Gotta service her and stick new fork seals in, but unsure of tappet clearances and fork oil weight / quantity (do the dust covers need to be replaced when changing the seals, or only if they are damaged?) Any of you find chaps (or chap-ess's) have the info? What spec oil do suzuki recommend for these now days? I always used to put 10W-40 Castrol mineral oil in my old 1100, but was wondering if the later bikes need / require semi-synth (or even fully, although unlikely)? The bikes only done about 12000 miles in 10 years, I wonder if even semi-synth would have "worn out" much with such infrequent use. Cheers ( Apologies for the awful pun thread title )
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Post by kokolis on May 23, 2015 5:47:03 GMT
Valves IN 10_15, EX 18_23 in metric. A good semi synthetic motorcycle oil would do the job. You can re_use dust seal if them look ok. Sae 10, 507cc per leg, but a sae 15 makes a difference in the relatetively soft bandit front.
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Post by captain chaos on May 23, 2015 6:52:39 GMT
What Kokolis said. He can actually post some useful stuff when not on the Ouzo . Set the valves closer to the maximum clearances (intake closer to 0,15mm, exhaust closer to 0,23mm), somehow they run better like that.
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Post by kokolis on May 23, 2015 7:59:28 GMT
What Kokolis said. He can actually post some useful stuff when not on the Ouzo . Set the valves closer to the maximum clearances (intake closer to 0,15mm, exhaust closer to 0,23mm), somehow they run better like that. No ouzo yet, only beer haha
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Reg: Apr 26, 2024 19:38:23 GMT
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Post by Deleted on May 23, 2015 8:42:19 GMT
What Kokolis said. He can actually post some useful stuff when not on the Ouzo . Set the valves closer to the maximum clearances (intake closer to 0,15mm, exhaust closer to 0,23mm), somehow they run better like that. No ouzo yet, only beer haha and they do get some good beer,s over there........... nikos would you like to buy the other blue panel before i e,gay it ? any belly pan,s over there........... before you get to drunk to abuse me ??ha ha.
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Post by kokolis on May 23, 2015 10:07:12 GMT
No ouzo yet, only beer haha and they do get some good beer,s over there........... nikos would you like to buy the other blue panel before i e,gay it ? any belly pan,s over there........... before you get to drunk to abuse me ??ha ha. Haha Dave, still searching for the top fairing, in acceptable price. No panel wanted, atleast not at the moment. Which side belly pan, both? And what contition / model, you can always pm me I ll do my best as you already know.
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Post by quazi on May 23, 2015 10:10:09 GMT
Don't be fooled by the viscosity/weight on the fork oil bottle, they're not all the same between brands.
Synthetic 10w is also not the same as Mineral 10w, the characteristics are different which will give a different feel. Don't mix the two either, keep them the same base type. You can mix grades but not makes and types.
I have bandit forks on my efe racebike with 20w {measured amount to suit my use}, modified pistons and a spacer. This set-up would be too heavy for the road, but for my use they're spot on. Others have commented on them feeling like modern forks although they don't perform as well, do a good job and they haven't cost me £1000 either.
As already said above, 15w is a good option.
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Post by Devilman on May 23, 2015 10:35:35 GMT
Valves IN 10_15, EX 18_23 in metric. A good semi synthetic motorcycle oil would do the job. You can re_use dust seal if them look ok. Sae 10, 507cc per leg, but a sae 15 makes a difference in the relatetively soft bandit front. Thanks, Much appreciated. I don't have a manual for bandit's, but I would assume that they are prettmuch the same as RWU slingshot forks, when it comes to disassembly / fitting new seals etc? .As I mentioned in another thread, the rider is a pretty large chap @ 6"11', reckon it's worth going heavier weight, or more quantity to compensate? If so, any suggestions as to whether it would be better to use a bit more oil, or just a thicker oil? What Kokolis said. He can actually post some useful stuff when not on the Ouzo . Set the valves closer to the maximum clearances (intake closer to 0,15mm, exhaust closer to 0,23mm), somehow they run better like that. Cool, I had just read that Dale Walker (of holeshot) recommended setting them at their "almost maximum" settings of 0.006" inlet and 0.008" exhaust, which would be right around the numbers you & kokolis spec'ed. Cheers you 2 Shouldn't need to replace the cam cover gasket when adjusting the tappets do I? Doubt it's ever been off with such low miles on the bike, so should be in pretty good nick? Thanks all
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Post by captain chaos on May 23, 2015 11:05:22 GMT
that the cam cover has never been off before doesn't mean that the gasket is probably still like new. Actually for me that would be a reason to replace it.
I have re-used mine three times now, but then the cover comes off every winter.
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Post by Devilman on May 23, 2015 11:10:43 GMT
that the cam cover has never been off before doesn't mean that the gasket is probably still like new. Actually for me that would be a reason to replace it. I have re-used mine three times now, but then the cover comes off every winter. Fair point, it could be stuck like a fecker and may tear when trying to remove.
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Post by kokolis on May 23, 2015 13:32:47 GMT
30/40ml extra sae 15 will do. As for de cover rubber, if its stack try to lift the cover without the seal, so you dont have to worry about leaks. Normaly the cam cover rubber can be used for ages, just dont over fastened it.
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Post by Devilman on May 23, 2015 13:49:25 GMT
30/40ml extra sae 15 will do. As for de cover rubber, if its stack try to lift the cover without the seal, so you dont have to worry about leaks. Normaly the cam cover rubber can be used for ages, just dont over fastened it. Cool thanks.. so you reckon it might be worth going up to 15w fork oil AND putting an extra 30-40ml in per leg to stiffen up the front end for the big guy who rides it? Cheers
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Post by quazi on May 23, 2015 15:06:47 GMT
Oil level has more of a controlling effect on rebound damping, over compression. Oil level plays its role in the bottom end of the travel and the limit of compression given the oils weight and spring weight. The weight of the oil is more noticable during the rebound damping affects rather than the compression effects throughout the full travel of the fork. Yes, all components play their part, spring weight preload, spacers, piston/shim stacks, piston orifice shapes, shim strengths, quantity etc. Difficult to specify anything that doesn't turn it into a black art and get multiple responses, some good some bad, some tried and tested. some failed. If you can be arsed, you can fine tune a set of non adjustable forks using oil level spring weight and preload using spacers that will improve the action of any forks 10 fold. But too many road bikes are set up incorrectly/poorly which is a shame because it's the most rewarding return for the investment of time and effort. I don't claim to know everything, I only pass on what I have done myself and tested it under hard use feeling the benefits, from ending up running wide into a field or making the turn still on the brakes. You cannot though translate eveything from the road or track, what is good for one is bad for another. Get yourself a good starting point and see how it feels, then go from there changing one thing at a time. If it gets worse, change it back again and try something else.
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Post by kokolis on May 23, 2015 15:38:31 GMT
30/40ml extra sae 15 will do. As for de cover rubber, if its stack try to lift the cover without the seal, so you dont have to worry about leaks. Normaly the cam cover rubber can be used for ages, just dont over fastened it. Cool thanks.. so you reckon it might be worth going up to 15w fork oil AND putting an extra 30-40ml in per leg to stiffen up the front end for the big guy who rides it? Cheers Yes
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Post by kokolis on May 23, 2015 15:50:33 GMT
Quazi, I couldnt agree more in most of your saying, and as I always say I also dont know everything . Daily riding suspencion will always be a compromise the one day is perfect the other you ride on eggs. For sure is personal thing/ feeling how do men want their set up, and for sure its pitty to see newer bikes have more trouble in corners than you on your oldtimer flexy frame almost no brakes but its still awsome.
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