Post by captain chaos on Jul 15, 2013 16:17:53 GMT
right see if this helps , gsxr11 or 12 blandits , shopping list for motor prep fer abuse !!
first on ur list is heavy duty valve springs roughly 40/50 quid
hd cam chain 35 ish ,
busa pistons around 100 quid ,
cometic head gasket 50 quid ,
lockup 180 ish ,
dyna 2000 180ish ,
rebore 100 quid ish ,
busa pistons take scotch pad n take off sharp edges on valve pockets , dont go too mad
then get barrells rebored to 4.thou clearance ,
use stock suzuki base gasket , cometic head , surfaces must be minty clean for proper gasket seal , easy so far!!!
...strip bottom end check shells ,gearbox n clutch now before u go any further , no point in straining near knackered parts , replace anything that looks foooked coz probably is , then reassemble make sure its all minty clean , cylinder head worth strip to relapp valves n fitt new guide seals while ur in there , once ur happy build motor up as normal , and stick to stock cam timing (dont start shouting yet)
next on list (or get from hiding place collection of bits) is the wizzy bang bit
..if its a road bike a T2 or T25 will do superbly , send out for carbon sealing (stops fuel being drawn into turbo and washing bearings out)
if ur racing , T25/28 hybrid or T3 will do for 9 second braket (millions of combinations for these turbos ) or better RAJAY f flow with .40 turbine housing , T2 T25/28 OR T3 will cost new aroung 500 quid mark ...a decent rajay Fflow will cost around the same or more if u can get ur hands on one ,
Right carbs ...
ROAD USE hsr42 or hsr45 , or hs40 for easy to jet n tune ..U CAN race with these carbs , fitt a fuel pump and decent fuel tap (dont forget tank breather )
RACE use s+s super E or super G , (super B OK but no accell pump and makes for wheezy accelleration ) carbs will cost around ish 200 quid each , either new or second hand.
PIPES , our very own warpspeedracing can make draw thru pipes in stainless that will last n look the nutts (if u want to check handiwork check dave butterys pipes ) or if u a clever fooker make ur own , normally pipes are around 5/600 quid ish ..............right got that !!!!!!
(rambles on ) sling motor back in frame , n fitt pipes , and ur new wastgate 38mm or 40mm the ones off shitferbrains auctionsite, or a mr turbo one , auction site price around 80quid , mr turbo one around 200 quid ,
OOOH forgot plenum , DOH!! right these little fuckers can make a big difference on how and where in the rev range power starts to come in , so stick with mr turbos size 320mm long and and 38mm box seamless drawn alloy(mr turbo originals are cast n cost a packet) email me if u want pic (shite posting pics ) also make sure u have two pushfitt 4 mm air takeoffs tapped or welded into plenum, plenums go between 100 to 200quid new or second hand ,
now fitt turbo to plenum with 3ply hose , turbo oil feed , tap into main oil gally underneath ur pickup cover with either a dash 3 or dash 4 fitting (depends on what hose u have ) i use dash 3 on gsxrs (brake lines n fittings ) long line upto top of turbo , 20 quid ish , oil drain from turbo needs to be dash 8 or dash 10 , around (goodridge) 80quid , go to local hose hydralics place should be around 20 quid , drain for turbo must be above oil sight glass , either welded in or drill n tapped in (pref in lockup spaceer) , fitt oil lines leave turbo oil feed loose (more later)
Mount carb (jetting depends on what carb and use) make new throttle cable 20 quid off shitebay (kit) dyna ignition timing static (works for me ) 36 degrees , and advance curve 1 once set .....barring jetting u should be good to go (spark plugs go up one grade)
When u first spin motor over (assuming u built properly) spin over long enough for oil to get around and start weeping out of turbo oil feed , now tighten oil feed to turbo(over 100 psi of oil pressure on full chat leaking is not good ) ..and hey presto fire in the hole (carb jetted right ) u should have a smug grin on ur mush (happy neighbours ) ........................probably loads ive forgot ..but u get the jist ...now wheres me coat
first on ur list is heavy duty valve springs roughly 40/50 quid
hd cam chain 35 ish ,
busa pistons around 100 quid ,
cometic head gasket 50 quid ,
lockup 180 ish ,
dyna 2000 180ish ,
rebore 100 quid ish ,
busa pistons take scotch pad n take off sharp edges on valve pockets , dont go too mad
then get barrells rebored to 4.thou clearance ,
use stock suzuki base gasket , cometic head , surfaces must be minty clean for proper gasket seal , easy so far!!!
...strip bottom end check shells ,gearbox n clutch now before u go any further , no point in straining near knackered parts , replace anything that looks foooked coz probably is , then reassemble make sure its all minty clean , cylinder head worth strip to relapp valves n fitt new guide seals while ur in there , once ur happy build motor up as normal , and stick to stock cam timing (dont start shouting yet)
next on list (or get from hiding place collection of bits) is the wizzy bang bit
..if its a road bike a T2 or T25 will do superbly , send out for carbon sealing (stops fuel being drawn into turbo and washing bearings out)
if ur racing , T25/28 hybrid or T3 will do for 9 second braket (millions of combinations for these turbos ) or better RAJAY f flow with .40 turbine housing , T2 T25/28 OR T3 will cost new aroung 500 quid mark ...a decent rajay Fflow will cost around the same or more if u can get ur hands on one ,
Right carbs ...
ROAD USE hsr42 or hsr45 , or hs40 for easy to jet n tune ..U CAN race with these carbs , fitt a fuel pump and decent fuel tap (dont forget tank breather )
RACE use s+s super E or super G , (super B OK but no accell pump and makes for wheezy accelleration ) carbs will cost around ish 200 quid each , either new or second hand.
PIPES , our very own warpspeedracing can make draw thru pipes in stainless that will last n look the nutts (if u want to check handiwork check dave butterys pipes ) or if u a clever fooker make ur own , normally pipes are around 5/600 quid ish ..............right got that !!!!!!
(rambles on ) sling motor back in frame , n fitt pipes , and ur new wastgate 38mm or 40mm the ones off shitferbrains auctionsite, or a mr turbo one , auction site price around 80quid , mr turbo one around 200 quid ,
OOOH forgot plenum , DOH!! right these little fuckers can make a big difference on how and where in the rev range power starts to come in , so stick with mr turbos size 320mm long and and 38mm box seamless drawn alloy(mr turbo originals are cast n cost a packet) email me if u want pic (shite posting pics ) also make sure u have two pushfitt 4 mm air takeoffs tapped or welded into plenum, plenums go between 100 to 200quid new or second hand ,
now fitt turbo to plenum with 3ply hose , turbo oil feed , tap into main oil gally underneath ur pickup cover with either a dash 3 or dash 4 fitting (depends on what hose u have ) i use dash 3 on gsxrs (brake lines n fittings ) long line upto top of turbo , 20 quid ish , oil drain from turbo needs to be dash 8 or dash 10 , around (goodridge) 80quid , go to local hose hydralics place should be around 20 quid , drain for turbo must be above oil sight glass , either welded in or drill n tapped in (pref in lockup spaceer) , fitt oil lines leave turbo oil feed loose (more later)
Mount carb (jetting depends on what carb and use) make new throttle cable 20 quid off shitebay (kit) dyna ignition timing static (works for me ) 36 degrees , and advance curve 1 once set .....barring jetting u should be good to go (spark plugs go up one grade)
When u first spin motor over (assuming u built properly) spin over long enough for oil to get around and start weeping out of turbo oil feed , now tighten oil feed to turbo(over 100 psi of oil pressure on full chat leaking is not good ) ..and hey presto fire in the hole (carb jetted right ) u should have a smug grin on ur mush (happy neighbours ) ........................probably loads ive forgot ..but u get the jist ...now wheres me coat
