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Post by kokolis on Mar 28, 2015 14:36:13 GMT
I thought that stainles alluminum and copaslip is a not done combi. I use MO2 or other grease
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Post by katana on Mar 28, 2015 17:32:26 GMT
I thought that stainles alluminum and copaslip is a not done combi. I use MO2 or other grease Hell of a lot less reactive than aluminium, carbon steel and iron oxide! As I said earlier use SS studs and there is no problem as they never need to come out!
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Post by kokolis on Mar 28, 2015 18:09:56 GMT
I thought that stainles alluminum and copaslip is a not done combi. I use MO2 or other grease Hell of a lot less reactive than aluminium, carbon steel and iron oxide! As I said earlier use SS studs and there is no problem as they never need to come out! I personaly had/have never that problem, as I always use a bit of lubricant, better safe than sorry
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bandzior64
Velociraptor
Posts: 40
Bikes: mk1 b12 99 and mk2 b12 05
Reg: Apr 18, 2013 17:50:15 GMT
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Post by bandzior64 on Mar 28, 2015 19:07:29 GMT
Hi Guys This last bolt is really trying my patients. Me being right handed, and the bolts in such a place that I need to work on it kack handed, so I keep whacking my hand with the hammer( bloody hurts). Decided to have a go and drill the head off. Only to find now the drill bit + drill are too long to drill square due to front end, could remove wheel and mudguard, but that's making more work for myself and I`d need to prop the bike up as its on centre stand at the moment, I don't have a workbench which means I`m rolling around the floor Tried to heat the head up with blow torch and use the extractor but no luck,I then tried a chisel but only managed to damage the head so now the extractor wont grip. Ill look into cutting the head off with a dremel. Just need to get a metal cutting bit. Once there all out and the engine is running again I intend to use stainless steel studs, and someone here recommended brass or copper nuts, hopefully they wont be too hard to find. Thanx for all comments and suggestions, keep them coming.
Ps. While I remember the extractor bit loaned to me by my mate is made by wurth.
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Post by quazi on Mar 28, 2015 21:41:15 GMT
You are really having a hard time eh. Leaving the engine in situ isn't the best way as you are finding out. Sometimes not doing something takes longer than actually doing it. Trying to save time and effort sometimes costs you more time and more work, it sounds to me like you'll have to get the lump out to get a proper chance at it, you stand too much of a chance causing further damage.
I use silicone grease myself as it can resist high temperatures and less likely to burn off, but then I do remove the exhaust every year.
Good luck with it.
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wassuck
Velociraptor
Posts: 47
Bikes: '85 GSXR750F
Reg: Oct 29, 2014 6:52:09 GMT
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Post by wassuck on Mar 29, 2015 7:26:55 GMT
Is that right about coppaslip? Anyway they're finefor now. When I next service the bike I'll recoat as suggested. The main principle is to loosen them off regularly, those that don't suffer as most fit a pipe and forget about it. On 30 year old bikes almost anything is possible!
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Post by bluedog59 on Mar 29, 2015 7:35:46 GMT
When you've finally get the motor out, buy a length of stainless M8 threaded bar, cut to length, deburr and use stainless flat and spring washers with stainless nuts. Don't use Nyloc nuts as the nylon will melt. Don't use Aerotight nuts as you risk unscrewing the stud.
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chas
Oviraptor
Posts: 16
Reg: Feb 11, 2015 16:07:05 GMT
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Post by chas on Mar 29, 2015 8:06:18 GMT
Copper grease is mostly used for its anti-seize properties and not for some kind of lubricant.
If you screw a stainless fastener into an alu' thread then it will start off a reaction between the 2 metals.
Copper grease is used because it puts a layer of copper between the 2 metals to keep them apart !
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Post by kokolis on Mar 29, 2015 9:24:36 GMT
I ve seen more threads shread with copperslip than without.
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chas
Oviraptor
Posts: 16
Reg: Feb 11, 2015 16:07:05 GMT
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Post by chas on Mar 29, 2015 10:31:40 GMT
I ve seen more threads shread with copperslip than without. Because it's oh so easy to overtighten a stainless fastener and strip an ally thread. This is NOT copper greases fault !
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Post by kokolis on Mar 29, 2015 11:30:58 GMT
I ve seen more threads shread with copperslip than without. Because it's oh so easy to overtighten a stainless fastener and strip an ally thread. This is NOT copper greases fault ! Stainles steel bolts are softer than black stress bolts. What men do is overtighten them bolts because the filling over power is less due to the use of copperslip. Anyway I never use / used that shit, I ve seen what that shit can do on customer's bikes, long time ago
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Post by katana on Mar 29, 2015 12:35:59 GMT
"You are really having a hard time eh. Leaving the engine in situ isn't the best way as you are finding out." "it sounds to me like you'll have to get the lump out to get a proper chance at it, you stand too much of a chance causing further damage." Good advice but as its the exhaust that's the problem, the motor won't come out, until its off! If you wanted to sacrifice the headers - cutting the tube is an option (just to get the lump out) and re-weld it later? Re where to get studs and brass / copper nuts see here... www.beal.org.uk/automotive/exhaust-manifold-nuts-studs/cat_100075.html
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bandzior64
Velociraptor
Posts: 40
Bikes: mk1 b12 99 and mk2 b12 05
Reg: Apr 18, 2013 17:50:15 GMT
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Post by bandzior64 on Mar 29, 2015 15:33:58 GMT
HI Guys Thanx for the link Megalodon will make a note and get some.
So I`m starting to think that this bike is gonna fight me all the way. Every thing I tried today resulted in either broken bolts or rounded off hex bolts. Wanted to remove front mudguard and wheel to get more access to the exhaust. First problem the dome hex bolts holding the fork brace and mudguard, the hex bit just rounding off in the bolt. Havent got any torx or spline bits at the moment. So I decide to remove the forks complete, only to snap the bolt that holds the clamp for speedo cable. Once off I decided to Drill the head of the exhaust bolt off, Only to snap the only sharp drill bit. Now the head of the bolt is in a right state. So now I`m looking at welding a nut onto the head and hoping that will work. Anyone in the east London/Essex area who has done this and might be able to help? Got to find a size of nut that I can grip with mole grips as well as what`s left of the bolt to weld together.
Sorry for banging on about this, but I know I cant be the only person who has had this problem, and its good to get sound advice gained through experience of solving a problem, rather getting frustrated yourself.
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Post by bigkenx on Mar 29, 2015 15:51:48 GMT
When I went a alcoholics anonymous meeting they had a exhaust bolts section where they talked about their ordeal together
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Post by quazi on Mar 29, 2015 16:48:41 GMT
That's my speed reading again, I made an assumption you were struggling with threaded studs with the exhaust already off.
I stand errected, corrected.
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