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Post by jaydee on Mar 29, 2015 17:01:33 GMT
When I went a alcoholics anonymous meeting Probably to pick up a mate and give him a lift home.
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Post by bigkenx on Mar 29, 2015 17:02:49 GMT
Ha ha
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wassuck
Velociraptor
Posts: 47
Bikes: '85 GSXR750F
Reg: Oct 29, 2014 6:52:09 GMT
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Post by wassuck on Mar 29, 2015 17:37:17 GMT
Too right. I am regretting ever mentioning it! I am hanging my head in shame and in the process learning all the time. A great analogy.
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bandzior64
Velociraptor
Posts: 40
Bikes: mk1 b12 99 and mk2 b12 05
Reg: Apr 18, 2013 17:50:15 GMT
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Post by bandzior64 on Mar 31, 2015 13:55:17 GMT
Hi Guys Does anyone know the length of the exhaust studs for the b12, would like to order some for when I finally get them all out. Thanx
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Post by bezzer on Apr 1, 2015 9:12:49 GMT
Standard B12 bolts are M8 x 25mm long though I've seen some Mk1s with 30mm fitted, if you're fitting studs you'd have to experiment with say 40mm ones with 15 thread each end, or just some plain threaded bar and cut to suit.
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bandzior64
Velociraptor
Posts: 40
Bikes: mk1 b12 99 and mk2 b12 05
Reg: Apr 18, 2013 17:50:15 GMT
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Post by bandzior64 on Apr 4, 2015 14:18:44 GMT
Hi Guys PROGRESS Decided to use a bit of brute force. Using a hammer and chisel I managed to hammer on the cap head of the bolt enough to shock move it a touch, but by now the head was in a bad state all mangled up. I tried the Irwin extractor on the bolt and this time it gripped and I have managed to remove the bolt without snapping it. I Guess spraying it with plus gas managed to work. Now I have another headache. The collets that hold the exhaust in place are so rusted in that when I tried to pry them out, the shoulder of the collet that the exhaust clamp presses against just flakes away, leaving the rest of the collet behind, they are that corroded. So for now I have sprayed them all with plus gas and hope that it will do it`s stuff. Thanx
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bandzior64
Velociraptor
Posts: 40
Bikes: mk1 b12 99 and mk2 b12 05
Reg: Apr 18, 2013 17:50:15 GMT
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Post by bandzior64 on Apr 8, 2015 12:31:31 GMT
Hi Guy`s Time to ask the fountain of knowledge. The downpipes on my b12 are stainless steel, (except the end bit that the link pipe fits in). And now I have bought stainless steel exhaust studs along with brass nuts, so now once the engine is repaired I should not have any problems from the exhaust. I would like to know if anyone has come across stainless steel exhaust collets, seems daft to put standard mild steel ones back in, only to rust again. Thanx
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Post by wsn03 on Apr 8, 2015 14:59:58 GMT
Hi Can't answer your question, but suggest you put some copper slip on the threads - Stainless cold welds itself to Aluminium (I've had it happen) - when that happens no one on here will be able to give you an answer that will get you out of the sh1t . Don't trust the torque settings once you use copper slip, it can distort by up to 40% I read once..... just nip them up tight and check them for first 500 miles or so.
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Post by katana on Apr 8, 2015 17:10:11 GMT
Hi Can't answer your question, but suggest you put some copper slip on the threads - Stainless cold welds itself to Aluminium (I've had it happen) - when that happens no one on here will be able to give you an answer that will get you out of the sh1t . Don't trust the torque settings once you use copper slip, it can distort by up to 40% I read once..... just nip them up tight and check them for first 500 miles or so. Fer f**k's sake they are studs so they don't ever need to come out! - Problem solved! If you can find a company that does water / laser cutting, I have a drawing to get some stainless flanges made - I guess £30 for 4 would be reasonable? I'll post it up if you want?
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Post by wsn03 on Apr 9, 2015 10:40:31 GMT
Hi Can't answer your question, but suggest you put some copper slip on the threads - Stainless cold welds itself to Aluminium (I've had it happen) - when that happens no one on here will be able to give you an answer that will get you out of the sh1t . Don't trust the torque settings once you use copper slip, it can distort by up to 40% I read once..... just nip them up tight and check them for first 500 miles or so. Fer f**k's sake they are studs so they don't ever need to come out! - Problem solved! If you can find a company that does water / laser cutting, I have a drawing to get some stainless flanges made - I guess £30 for 4 would be reasonable? I'll post it up if you want? Sorry I was referring to bolts. My bandit I've used stainless bolts, on the Gixxer half studs, half bolts (due to access). Definitely wouldn't use copper slip on studs - instead I use threadlock. Same statement for torque settings, if we're talking nuts on studs it doesn't matter, bolts can fook the lot if over tightened. You know what I mean.
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Post by katana on Apr 9, 2015 19:20:14 GMT
I do! Its ironic that studs used to be std. fitting for exhausts but unfortunately the makers used cheap studs and nuts made from steel which we all know ain't a good combination in this situation. A spring washer will work fine on brass or copper nuts - all a bit retro but it works well.
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Post by wsn03 on Apr 10, 2015 8:27:19 GMT
I do! Its ironic that studs used to be std. fitting for exhausts but unfortunately the makers used cheap studs and nuts made from steel which we all know ain't a good combination in this situation. A spring washer will work fine on brass or copper nuts - all a bit retro but it works well. They're a foooker for getting out, but I must say Plus Gas and mole grips has never failed me. I've used copper nuts but also stainless with spring washers - that's been fine too. Annoying that the slabby doesn't have access for all studs, but one stud per cylinder at least makes the exhaust easier to fit than with bolts.
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Post by canamant on Apr 11, 2015 23:21:42 GMT
Just don eth ewhole lot on an 1127. 5 came out OK. 3 rounded off. Tried the 12mm 12 point socket trick. Perfect. Result. Cleaned corrosion out of all threads with "plug" tap. Just need an exhaust system now.
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bandzior64
Velociraptor
Posts: 40
Bikes: mk1 b12 99 and mk2 b12 05
Reg: Apr 18, 2013 17:50:15 GMT
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Post by bandzior64 on Apr 12, 2015 11:56:59 GMT
Hi Guys Just to let you all know IT`S OUT. Finally managed to get the exhaust off the engine. Just hope the rest of the bolts to remove the engine from the frame don't give me this much trouble. Now the pipe is off I have found that the ends that go into the engine exhaust port have collars that are fixed as opposed to removable collets as I first thought, problem is the shoulder that the clamp press against to keep the exhaust on have corroded away, so now two of the clamps have nothing to push on, also at the other end the collector is so rotten there`s nothing left to hold the link pipe. I`ll have a look into getting it repaired at a local car exhaust specialist that I have used before, otherwise `I`1m looking at a new set of downpipes, OUCH. Never thought that my post would raise so much interest, thanx for reading and commenting much appreciated.
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Post by sibag on Apr 13, 2015 12:10:16 GMT
Yay its out...
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