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Post by kokolis on Mar 1, 2014 20:18:43 GMT
You can also use a piece of wood, Put the piece of wood there where you want to hit and hit the wood with the mallet
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 2, 2014 10:57:25 GMT
Got the biatch off. Right then the inlet valves are black but the outlets have an extra thick brown crust, this normal? I'm going to clean & polish them as best I can, (ultrasonic clean?) the piston bores all look good but I guess it need a vernier to check for wear properly. The piston crowns are all just black but how can I check rings without removing the barrels? Although I guess I may aswell remove the barrels having gone this far. I wasn't sure what would happen to the cam chain so I've held it out the crank with some wire. Oh I think I may get a new head as I have two broken exhaust ports which take two gaskets to prevent blowing & as it's all off anyway.
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Post by katana on Mar 2, 2014 13:00:56 GMT
To check the bores accurately you'll need a bore micrometer gauge - not a usual tool to have lying around so try a local engine engineering place! Drop chain down into crankcase - just don't try and turn crank with it down there! Sounds like its deffo been either rich running (brown crust) in the exhausts and / or burning oil (black deposits) Good colours on inlet valves would be tan - dark tan, exhausts - light tan to cream colour. The exhausts will always / should burn hotter and so lighter. How do you 'break' an exhaust port? - Pictures!
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 2, 2014 14:06:08 GMT
They were already broken, think I may replace the head as it's off as it's a pita using 2 gaskets. I put oil on top of the valves so it's a puddle in all 4 and there is no leaks, stems are bone dry. Been watching valve reseating vids & it looks simple enough so may give it a go, easier to follow than the manual. There is some oil residue around the barrels on the left near the head gasket so it may have been the gasket? As all else looks ok.
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 2, 2014 14:50:51 GMT
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Deleted
Posts: 0
Reg: May 17, 2024 6:13:26 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Mar 2, 2014 15:30:55 GMT
use parrafin or diesel too check if valves are leaking . stand it the rightway up on block,s at each end and pour it in and see if it leak,s . too check ring,s you will have too remove block ok exh port,s broken ..... rough ass monkey,s in the south ha ha oss-popcorn
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 2, 2014 17:06:38 GMT
Definately a monkey to break them, f... Knows how?? Anyhow looking at heads it'll be cheaper to just fit another head complete with cams & valves & if need be reseat & re seal later.
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 3, 2014 19:17:46 GMT
Well I couldn't resist & so pulled off the barrels. Looking at the rings they all looked good so I've been looking online. Aparently the piston needs to be all one colour with no oil discolouration between the rings. 1&2 both look good & so did 3&4 (the 2 that take 10hrs to fire up) until i looked at the front & both are oily between the top rings. So i guess I've found the problem. Can't wait to see how it should really perform when rebuilt.
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 4, 2014 17:49:34 GMT
Comes in at around £400 which includes a new head with cams. That's ordering the new parts via the states (head from uk) Worth it for new top end for piece of mind? I see complete 750 engines for around £300 including postage but that could need a top end in the near future too or may be smokey. How much would an 1100 lump with carbs be roughly & apart from carbs what else is required? coils? . I don't think I'd like a 1200 as I'd loose the airbox as I don't like filters. I've also read the mid panels mount on the head would be in a different location to the 750? Need to decide the best option for me.
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Post by kokolis on Mar 4, 2014 19:16:49 GMT
A 750 lump has also lived another life, it is always a guess, only you can determine if your engine is worth repairing, or you have to buy another, if you choose buy, buy bigger I had the same, I was determined to repair mine, costs about 800 euro, the lump had already 83k kms and then I found another with 11k kms for a third the price, I couldn't leave it could I. The CDI is mostly what you will need for the other engine, you can use your own ignition plate, coils are the same more or less
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 4, 2014 20:05:21 GMT
I feel that I haven't seen the best of the 750 motor as it's obviously had low compression since I've been riding it & will be why it wouldn't pull past 130mph & won't lift even with -1 tooth on the front sprocket. I need to sleep on it unless someone has an 1100 lump taking up space
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Post by kokolis on Mar 5, 2014 8:41:42 GMT
Mine slabby 750 oem geard lifted the front with a turn of the hendle (was back in 1988 but still)
As I said before a 1100F is a good option them have mostly sufered less. Maybe you should consider holiday in Holland............hahaha
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 5, 2014 15:22:35 GMT
My surname is Dutch as my grandad was Dutch south african. I'd be more than happy to have mine lift off the throttle, new rings, polished pistons & as much of the head I can access with a cleaning implement, polished & reseated valves has got to bring back lost horses. Either option is gonna be pricey but I'm feeling inclined to repair. On the 1100 I'd also need new inlet rubbers for the bigger carbs I assume.
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Post by kokolis on Mar 5, 2014 17:06:02 GMT
Say, 1100F use 34mm If you do a nick job on yours why bother buying another, but as usual bigger is better. The 750 will get the lost horses but with the 1100 you will have at least 30 more.
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 5, 2014 17:22:53 GMT
Just found an 1100f for £600, that's engine (30k miles) carbs, loom, ignition, coils. 3hrs left don't want to be paying over the odds & it's not very local. Looking at images of the 1100f motor it doesn't have a rubber bung hole for the mid panel mount. Not keen on the thought of a 'floating' fairing.
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