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Post by kokolis on Mar 5, 2014 19:23:08 GMT
You can use yours
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 9, 2014 17:55:41 GMT
I've not ordered anything yet as I wanted to make sure of everything first. Anyhow the engines out (not that heavy when you remove head/barrels/starter/alternator)but I'm a bit unsure of the barrels?. In two bores there is a mark where the bottom ring has left a mark where it was stood for who knows how long. For most of this mark you cannot feel it but on a small area on each I can feel it with my finger nail. Can I use autosol on the bores to see if it cleans it up or if it remains should I get another barrel or maybe rebore this one? I know an engineers that do it & supply the pistons & rings but not sure if that's a good idea. There's no scoring in the bores just this ring mark.
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Post by kokolis on Mar 9, 2014 19:32:12 GMT
Bore scoring due to long still, them are hard to get rid off, sometimes honing doesn't help and re-bore is needed. You can try honing but re-bore would be better and if so you will have to re-bore all of them.
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 10, 2014 17:33:50 GMT
Went to an engineers today £160 + vat for a rebore. No thanks, looking for a decent barrel now.
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Post by kokolis on Mar 10, 2014 17:59:05 GMT
for 1 or all 4?
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 10, 2014 18:42:14 GMT
All 4
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Post by kokolis on Mar 10, 2014 19:20:39 GMT
Is not so bad, keep in mind that if you find other barrels maybe also scored. +-800 for rebore and new pistons, gaskets, maybe barrels I would seriusly consider the 11 way
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 11, 2014 21:14:23 GMT
Can I use my exhaust with a 1052? I assume the 750 sump gives the clearance?
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Post by kokolis on Mar 12, 2014 7:08:12 GMT
Can I use my exhaust with a 1052? I assume the 750 sump gives the clearance? Sure, you can use almost everything exept engine internals and cdi. Have you found one?
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 16, 2014 15:27:05 GMT
Thought i'd have a trial run on my old head at doing them stem seals. I've found i need ANOTHER tool to remove & replace the seals as they wont budge. I also cannot replace the collets or whatever they are called as they are so dam tiny. Any tips or MORE tools needed?
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Post by katana on Mar 16, 2014 18:06:58 GMT
All you need to remove valve seals is a decent sized screwdriver - you ain't keeping them so brute force and ignorance reigns! Use a extendable magnet to pick the collets out and a bit of grease to hold them on a thin screwdriver when replacing works well enough for those with fingers like sausages!
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 16, 2014 20:26:25 GMT
Screw driver won't budge them nor will long nose pliers. A remover/installer is on it's way.
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Post by katana on Mar 16, 2014 22:52:10 GMT
Screw driver won't budge them nor will long nose pliers. A remover/installer is on it's way. You're doing it wrong then!
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Post by p4ddy on Mar 17, 2014 14:05:19 GMT
? not sure it can be done wrong can it? Besides wouldn't a slip with force risk scraping the thing it sits over comprimising it's sealability? just put the valve,spring & 'keepers' back on using a bit of grease to hold them in place. I'm ready for the lap now I'm happy with my new confidence, a team Suzuki mechanic candidate now I think
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Post by katana on Mar 17, 2014 19:18:07 GMT
You use the screwdriver as a lever under the bottom of the seal with a wooden block or a rag over the cover gasket face to protect it and just pry them off. You'd have to be an animal to hurt the guide and besides the seal sits in a groove just to locate it - doesn't do any sealing, thats just round the valve shaft.
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